Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 36
16m. A boulder problem start (V3) up a leaning rib leads to a good ledge at 5m (this can be avoided by a traverse from the left reducing the grade of the route to 5c). Pull through the notch in the overhang with difficulty and finish up the wall on green, sloping holds.
Last time I was up there the little pocket had broken.
The "thin pocket" is very damaged. Just about get the ends of two fingers into. I think the crux is leaving the good ledge at 5m.
Yeah pocket before lip is damaged and is now more use as a single finger mono! Bouldery move leaving the shelf using it though!
Realy goood route!good gear in the break then agree that the crux move is leaving it. didn't find the pocket to bad could get 2 fingers in it. hardest thing about it was the lack of good footholds. really enjoyable move once you commit though.
Very nice. Boulder problem start is good fun, whilst the crux just after the ledge has to be one of the best moves on Stanage. Not sure of the significance of moving up using the broken pocket, I went up and down several times whilst arduously fiddling in some gear.
The start is harder than the moves after the ledge