Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 133
16m. A photogenic outing. The first ledge on the arete is accessed from the right awkwardly then make long reaches (5b for the short) to gain better holds higher up the arete. The upper section is more delicate. Escape off right across the top of the chimney or through the cave system. Harding’s Super Direct Finish over to the left, is well worth considering. Photo page 1.
Much harder for the short.
I agree, the overhang is tough for the 'vertically challenged'. But after a dozen falls I can testify that the gear placements are bomber just below the crux. May have another go when I'm capable of HVS 5b.
I'm 5'7" and I didn't find this particularly difficult. I would have thought it was reasonably soft HVS. There are big holds all the way up and the protection is perfect. Great route.
Well I'm 5'6" (on a good day!) and found the long reach very long (fell off once). Finally managed it with a real slap move. Good holds though when you get them....
Good route, strechy crux, great if you finish straight up throught the overhangs out of the Cave