Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 15
14m. A stiff problem requiring some effort. Climb the face just right of the arete (poor Friend 1.5) using tiny holds away on the right and a worrying slap for the break. The upper part is easier though mildly reachy. It is possible to climb left of the arete at about E2 (with a side-runner) but that really isn't cricket!
Nice moves up the face. Didn't have to slap for the break, just a sharp pull.
The 'poor' friend is a 2 not a 1.5 and it will hold weight. No slapping required to reach the break, just great moves using an unlikely mono and a crimp. The upper arete has good moves too.
better to start up the arete, taking the mono / small edges with the right hand. Totally independent from PO wall this way too.
Grade of easy E4, mid-6a seems right. But the start is really tricksy - took me ages to work it out, and my second and a couple of others found the same.