Constipation

1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
 E4 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< Robin Hood's Balcony Cave Direct < Broken Arrow  |  Pacific Ocean Wall > Desperation >>


14m. A stiff problem requiring some effort. Climb the face just right of the arete (poor Friend 1.5) using tiny holds away on the right and a worrying slap for the break. The upper part is easier though mildly reachy. It is possible to climb left of the arete at about E2 (with a side-runner) but that really isn't cricket!
FA. John Allen 1973

USER COMMENTS

Nice moves up the face. Didn't have to slap for the break, just a sharp pull.
jutting - 27/May/05

The 'poor' friend is a 2 not a 1.5 and it will hold weight. No slapping required to reach the break, just great moves using an unlikely mono and a crimp. The upper arete has good moves too.
Nige M - 05/Apr/06

better to start up the arete, taking the mono / small edges with the right hand. Totally independent from PO wall this way too.
toby - 25/May/06

Grade of easy E4, mid-6a seems right. But the start is really tricksy - took me ages to work it out, and my second and a couple of others found the same.
profonrock - 05/Nov/07

I definitely wanted some spotters to do the lower moves but all the friends seemed bomber to me. I used a Camalot 1 personally and it was a perfect fit. Airy at he top. E4 6a for sure.
Matt Pigden - 03/Aug/14

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 15
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