Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 33
Worthwhile but bold. Starting at the tunnel climb the arete on its left before pulling round onto the front face. A poorly-protected mantelshelf reaches better holds, then traverse right to a wide crack to finish. High in the grade, and it used to be VDiff!
VS 4A gives a better impression of the nature of the climbing and lack of protection.
Believe it or not this route used to be graded HVD! It's not VS 4a, the technical grade is far harder than October Climb (S 4a) for instance, also I found it harder than Himmelswillen (VS 4c). But I couldn't bring myself to give it HVS 4c or even HVS 4b so I'll go along with VS 4b since VS 4c doesn't give any sense of the crap gear!
Much harder for the short - that jug may be huge but it's a long way away