Desperation

3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
 E1 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Constipation < Pacific Ocean Wall  |  Robin Hood's Staircase Direct > Rubber Band >>


12m. The lower section of the smooth wall is climbed via a problem start on the right (6a for short climbers). Swing left then attain a standing position in the break. The upper section then follows the thin crack and gradually eases.
FA. Bob Brayshaw 1959

USER COMMENTS

A serious start, this is definitely a good E2 for those of normal stature, in fact high in the grade.
Al - 14/Jul/02

I'm 5'10" and find the start impossible! I've done plenty of other 5c routes, but this one has me beaten for now :-(
Nick Smith - 15/Aug/02

Fantastic route which doesn't ease much til the top. At 5'5"ish I found the start 6a but you can jump (left) off without hurting yourself, though a pad wouldn't be a bad idea.
John Helme - 09/Sep/02

Wicked!
mark s davies - 27/Mar/03

Finally cracked the start! I did it by laybacking left off the chalked 'V' crack, and a slightly precarious high step up with my right foot... and stretch for the break!
Nick Smith - 02/Jul/03

Am a shorty and have always found the start really hard.
Philip Smith - 23/Feb/04

i can just about reach the break (i'm just over 6 foot) and its about 5c, but can see it being harder for the short. good route and definitely more like E2 5c/6a
ged - 13/Apr/04

definitely only E1 5c, dont be soft
JR - 06/Jul/04

yeah did this today. im 5' 7" and reached the break dead easy strat with right hand on the side pull left on the lower crimp twist so u is laying back the side pull hand foot match at left hand and kapoww! you got the break! i found this quite steady at E1 5c but its my style!
alex - 09/Aug/05

I used the tiny slit under the V crack for pro? I used a an offset RP and it gave me plenty of confidence moving up.
No-ozone - 09/Jan/06

Nice route, does what it says on the tin. Height is hardly relevant for the start, but it is somewhat stretchy just above the cool crimp move to get into the crack.
Fiend - 26/Feb/07

This is the hardest E1 on grit (if it is E1). Much, much harder than kayak, white out, great peter and now or never which are all apparently above it in the graded list.
Joe - 14/Apr/07

When I say grit I of course mean "eastern grit". ta
Joe - 14/Apr/07

I found the problem start slightly harder than the en-route crux (which definitely adheres to the name). A hard V2 start into a reasonably hard E1... Does that make an E2? I'd say this is the hardest E1 I've done, and definitely easier than a few E2s...
Pythonist - 07/Sep/07

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 143
    hard E2 0 of 49
    E2 0 of 49
    easy E2 14 of 49
    hard E1 21 of 49
    E1 14 of 49
    easy E1 0 of 49
    hard HVS 0 of 49
    HVS 0 of 49
    easy HVS 0 of 49
    hard 6a 0 of 52
    6a 0 of 52
    easy 6a 20 of 52
    hard 5c 22 of 52
    5c 8 of 52
    easy 5c 0 of 52
    hard 5b 2 of 52
    5b 0 of 52
    easy 5b 0 of 52
    3 Stars 23 of 42
    2 Stars 19 of 42
    1 Star 0 of 42
    0 Stars 0 of 42
    Bag of ..... 0 of 42

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.