Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 122
20m. A good test of how the jamming is coming on! Traverse the obvious horizontal break on solid lockers (or by a gripping dangle) out to the nose. Finish up the juggy arete.
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A brilliant route. The traverse gets easier, so place some gear and go for it! Lovely finishing arete. Enjoy - I will again some time!
Leaders would do well not stick too much gear in the traverse if they still want their partner to enjoy seconding the route. Remeber leaders can have as many goes at the traverse as they like but seconding leaves only one attempt really so can be very tiring removing all that gear whilst hanging on with one hand!!!
The traverse didn't get any easier for me; pumped out and fell off the last move, taking quite a swing. Was solid at VS 4c at the time so believe the route to be HVS 5a but nobody ever agrees with me; the footholds are very poor on the traverse.
Superb route! Good footwork and good jamming essential though.
Sorry Jamie it's definitely VS though at the top end of the grade. Compare with The File or Gymcrack (Millstone). Dalesman is an HVS jamming traverse.
really fun route if you can jam and your partner can't, especialy as I did it when it was damp, my hands came out green. Nice. oh and my partner fell off. He would say E10, but I'd say VS 4C
Was really looking forward to this one but have to say it disappointed, the traverse is the climb and its not as difficult/good as it looks, one bit of gear and keep going.No need to jam.
no need to jam? maybe not, but it makes it a thousand times easier (unless you enjoy dangling off slopers)
a brilliant route, great test for VS hand jamming
great route ,but came off after "going 4 it"and split my head open on the boulders below!be warned, put some gear in.
The traverse has poor footholds at the start (little pebbles), but good jams, as it continues the footholds get better and the jams get worse (they got too wide for me). Gear is great at long as you have the strength to stop and place it.
Pretty soft IMO, you dont even need to jam it if you dont want to. If you sort your feet out youre never footless either (can stretch from slopers on left to slopers on right with a wide stance) and the break not only has good jams but positive holds to boot. Enough gera can be placed before committing to make it safe.
top tip on this route get to the start of the travers put some gear in, take the rest, move left put some gear in as far away as you can, come back and have another rest then go for it but do not get the end move wrong have seen a fair few people deck on this route
Better off putting the gear to the RIGHT - less likely to hit the ground that way!
too right ment right
I thought this the best VS i've done. No need to jam? Keep low and move across taking a lot of your weight on smears. 2.5 friend about half way along. I found the last moves on the traverse the most worrying but i had plenty of adrenaline pumping by then. Definitely very much easier and thankfully shorter than Dalesman on High Neb which is it's Big Brother route.
Think about your second, only use one rope for runners on the traverse, This was my first VS, (about 45 years ago) as a second and we only had one rope, but it was ok because we didnt have cams so runners were not a problem. Good lead by my mate, his first VS lead, mine was IV, the route next door straight after :-)
In comparison to Rubber Band (a similar shaped route), this is definitely high VS requiring careful footwork irrespective of whether you jam or hang the breakline. Not one of the traverses that would rank highly, hence more like 2*.
intimidated by this climb for years finally did it very comfotably . where crack widens 3/4 way out there is the best jam ever, hang all day placing gear galore then enjoy as a VS 4c