Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 278
22m. The beckoning V-shaped cleft. Follow the initial polished crack and deepening groove to the top overhang - it was traditional to take a stance here, in The Birdcage. Traverse right (threads that jam the rope) to finish up the exposed crack in the right edge of the roof. Low in the grade and a good first VS lead. There are also two leftward escapes - the lowest one is mild, higher, from The Birdcage, is harder and more exciting.
Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.
This should be a 'green' VS, it's one of the easiest about.
A nice line, but I didn't think the climbing was too nice. Spoilt by awkward, rather than hard, moves. Take big cams and hexes to protect the crack. Excellent finish, protected by good thread. Two stars only, I think.
not a bad climbing good have been better then i did do it when you couldn't see a thing and it was hailing. Take big friends and hexes and a couple of slings (some really good threads. bomber!) though make sure your rope dosent get trapped in the choke under the over hand. (use two ropes or long extenders.
Once over the bulge it feels more like a HS,Still a great climb.
Dirty and overated
Enjoyed this puppy quite alot, except for a ghastly hand jam move at mid height. I am pretty crap at them though. Great finish.
Too easy after half height to be worth 3 stars. I found the bottom uch harder than I expected after reading the comments here!
This was my first lead. Was a bit too hard for me and it started raining. Struggled about 1/2 way up, needed some bigger hexes and bigger hands. Enjoyed it in the end.
i liked the up bit and the traverse bit.
Middle bit harder than top.Jam it(awkward) or layback it but dont forget to stop for some pro,the crack is longer than you think.
watch out for the rope jamming in the top chock stone
Did this today for my first VS. Sprinted the crux after a few aborted attempts (and didn't stop for pro). Though the second half was pretty fun, except for having to downclimb to sort out the rope drag from the chock stone!
also my first VS. Cleaned it first time but crux bulge at half height was perplexing until i realised it was a bomber fist-jam. Once out from under the roof the route is effectively over.
good but a bit too easy after the start. Not sure this one is worth more than HS personally.
i agree with Gav P's comments...the crux middle moves are awkward, rather than pleasant. Get's much much easier once you're past the difficult bit which is a shame, but the traverse moves are still nicely poised. Quote from the missus "I only enjoyed it after half-way"! Only just VS but I wouldn't like to have done it for my first VS...
didn't seem that awkward to me, just a case of toe/foot jaming the cracks.
If you want a very soft 'VS' tick, this is a good one to go for. Loads of gear, loads of rests and not too difficult.
My second VS lead and first at Stanage. Think it was a soft touch at VS though I then happily led Mississippi BD moments later, so perhaps it was just a good day.
led this again recently.
Once past the crux '3m up at the bulge' its plain sailing. no need for jams, and a little awkward getting round the overhang at the top but not hard. nice route.
first lead in about a year its a good one to get u back into it
Very pleasant, but probably only HS 4c (if that). As it is geartastic and only a bit hard. All good fun though.
Bit polished in places.
Pretty easy if you can jam unlike me. A good route to get some practice in as the gear is sound, but too much guano detracts from the experience.
site of my first lead fall and a big one, fell at the layback crux- the polish really is extreme now as the small ledge by the layback is almost as smooth as ice, however the gear is bomber providing you have big hexes
Enjoyed the route and the exposure on the last section, good vs route.
Middle section is pretty tricky and very polished, bring several big Cams as without them there's not a lot of pro around the crux. Bomber threads at the top but once you're past the bulge you don't really need them.
A good route, emjoyable coming out from under the roof. Watch the first step up below the roof ( I got my helmet stuck in the crack!!) Great gear all the way up though with bomber threads at the top. Easy VS I think.
This was my first VS lead, about 45 years ago, the lower crack now seems to be the crux having got well polished over the years.
Fantastic route! Tough fist jam at half height where the crack bulges slightly. Good airy step left from the birdcage, bomber gear all the way. Well worth 3 stars.
To be honest I got bored of this route quite quickly. Definetely easy VS, but there are much better routes on the edge. Defo overrated!
led, forgot how to jam, so pulled up on ledges, great! top L exit.