Robin Hood's Right-hand Buttress Direct

3 Stars
Rounded
 HS 4a

Adjacent Routes
<< Inverted V < Retroversion  |  Thunder Road > Cold Turkey >>


22m. A great route up the wide crack splitting the centre of the face. Low in the grade but intimidating. Climb to the large overhang and shuffle out right to reach a small ledge below the main crack. From here route finding is not a problem.
FA. Cyril Ward 1922. Also known as ‘Button Hook’.

USER COMMENTS

My only regret is not leading this when HS was my limit. Still an absorbing solo!
daveP - 17/Apr/02

A great climb,smallest cam would be a 3,the need for a healthy supply of big guns could be disputed as once the overhang is passed the climbing is solid.
Charlie - 25/Mar/03

I agree with Charlie about not needing the 'big guns'. I saved all my large friends/hexes assuming from the description that I'd need them nearer the top and ended up not using most of them at all!
Simon Caldwell - 25/Mar/03

Seeing the size of the crack i didn't bother taking any nuts and protected the whole route with two big friends my largest tricam and a hex. it was very run out and definitely worth HS. a couple of friend 5s or some size 13 hexes are the sort of big guns required!!
Jon Greengrass - 10/Jul/03

"it was very run out and definitely worth HS" - yes, but only because you'd left half your rack at the bottom! If you soloed it would that make it an HVS?
Simon Caldwell - 10/Jul/03

didn't this used to be severe before the days of big cams? get real people, with big cams this would be a well protected VDiff!
Dave - 10/Jul/03

A great route, definately solid HS. I took two friend 4's and two size 9 rockcentrics and felt fine, plenty of smaller gear in the horizontal breaks.
Keith - 22/Sep/03

A nice route, Big cams defintely help to tame the beast, but I think large hexes and smaller cams would still make this a reasonable lead at HS, although if you did slip you'd probably hit the ledge above the overhang at some stages. Fairly easy climbing really as long as you can fist Jam, and defo not sustained. If it was better protected and easier to arrange the protection it would defintely be severe IMHO. So taking up two number 5 cams along with say a 3 and 4, as well as a usual rack would certainly make this easier than HS in my book.
Woker - 16/Jun/04

Definitely not VDiff, all the breaks are slopey and polished, moves are at least 4a, possibly 4b and quite sustained. Also protection is poor unless you have several things of at leas friend 4 / rockcentric 9 size - i did take my whole rack and only got 3 things in after the overhang.
Si - 22/Jul/04

I don't own any massive gear but managed to protect this route (every 3 metres or so anyway) with small gear in the horizontal breaks and a sling. Certainly run out enough to make it a memorable route but I don't think you would deck at any point if you fell. With massive cams this would be a walk in the park.
DaveF - 26/Jul/04

This is really pretty easy for HS. Other than the silly move onto the ledge after the overhang you are on enormous foot ledges, so the slightly slopery holds don't really matter. There's plenty of gear in the top section (a couple of big nuts and a sling at least, massive cams and hexes notwithstanding), but it was easy enough that I didn't bother to place very much.

Good climbing, but I've definitely done harder Severes.
victim of mathematics - 19/May/05

Agree with earlier comments. Saved my 'big guns' 8 & 9 rockcentrics till the point I didn't need them. There is protection aplenty with wires in the breaks. I had a moderate run at the top but the holds were very positive at that point. Anyway, technicalities aside it's a superb and varied route.
Hodge - 19/Jul/05

Great climbing but felt like a Vdiff to me. If you are happy with slopping gritstone holds its probably only 3c.
Passed the overhanged placed a couple of hexs and a friend 4, they got confided and ran out the last 8m.
Fraser - 01/Sep/05

did this route in the blazing sun, lovely weather though made it harder for myself by not taking enough long runners- quickdraws are just to short because there is plenty of wire protection buts its further back in the large crack, also the polished holds were quite tricky with no friction and sweating hands, brilliant route if you get it right
Chris - 11/May/06

Great route! There's plenty of small protection to be placed above the roof in the horizontal breaks if you haven't got any "big guns" left. Also a superb sling placement around half height.
NickT - 03/Sep/06

I did this with all the right gear, so placed plenty of it. For those of you who think it's less than a Severe - don't forget it's one of the longest routes on Stanage (and in the Peak?) and may be quite intimidating for an HS leader, which all adds to the adjectival grade. (If anyone does feel intimidated - I found I got more and more into it the higher I got, good route.)
cider nut - 02/Apr/07

Good route, probably gets HS due to the height. Funny move under the overhang, but easily protected with a big chock. Good fun for a last of the day.
David Berry - 18/Feb/08

First grit lead! Very nice, nothing too technical but gear needed seeking out, very flattering in fact
paul watson - 05/Jun/10

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 169
    hard VS 0 of 58
    VS 0 of 58
    easy VS 0 of 58
    hard HS 5 of 58
    HS 34 of 58
    easy HS 15 of 58
    hard4 of 58
    0 of 58
    easy0 of 58
    hard 4b 0 of 56
    4b 0 of 56
    easy 4b 1 of 56
    hard 4a 8 of 56
    4a 36 of 56
    easy 4a 9 of 56
    hard 3c 2 of 56
    3c 0 of 56
    easy 3c 0 of 56
    3 Stars 51 of 55
    2 Stars 4 of 55
    1 Star 0 of 55
    0 Stars 0 of 55
    Bag of ..... 0 of 55

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