Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 71
20m. The central line of the buttress is a fine line and not too taxing. Climb into the wide chimney and, either climb to the roof and shuffle left, or take the flake-crack on the left arete as for Cold Turkey - harder. From ledges, easier climbing leads past the overhang to the finishing chimney. A few slings for a selection of threads might be found of use.
A great route, with some interesting and varied climbing. Watch out for the hollybush that lurks above the overhang!
Cracking route. Interesting traverse beneath the overhang. Quality crux move. Very easy climbing after the crux though......
I thought this was brutal, and I led it after Hell Crack and Ellis's Eliminate (cracks that others often think are brutal but I thought were fine). Jolly good VS, spoilt only slightly by the Severe finish.
for maximum enjoymnet, climb all the way to the top of the chimney then shuffle back to the lip bridging wide on overhead fist jams. Pull throught the lip and arm bar your way to glory.
the left hand variation start up the flake on the arete is better as its cleaner. get some small nuts in. awkward to place but good and a steep pull and its all over. still save a huge cam(bigger than a 4) for the last steep bit. official stanage book says this is high in the grade. i still think middle 4c.
Quite a friendly VS if you don't mind the first exposed bit if you take the route out from the cave. Good gear and good clean fun.
really enjoyed this route, did the harder start and it made me smile lots :)