2 Stars
 HS 4b

Adjacent Routes
<< The Actress < Bishop's Route  |  Zig-zag Flake Crack > Coconut Ice >>

A bit aimless but pleasant and with only one tricky move. Follow Bishop's Route to the ledge then step out right and climb the well-positioned flake crack in the arete to a fine finish on flutings.
FA. John Loy early 1960s


Which ledge? Is it the one with the holly on, or the one above that? Going by the old definitive guide it's the latter, and you step right into the crack. In which case I can't see why this gets VS 4b, it felt more like Severe to me, HS 4b at most (well protected and not sustained). Conversely, if you are supposed to access the crack direct from the first ledge, it's much harder than the grade!
Simon Caldwell - 07/Jun/04

Climbed this on saturday - way too cold for climbing but what can you do. Going straight up from the first ledge is definately the way to go. Looks harder than it actually is and is certainly the only section of the climb that gives it the VS grade.
Albie - 11/Apr/05

I can see why the description given here suggests the is aimless if you traverse from the second (smaller) ledge on Bishops route.

I went straight up from the big ledge (the one with the bush) and the route provides a few pleasant steep moves around VS. If you miss this bit out by traversing from higher up, I can't really see the point.
Glen Harding - 14/Jul/08

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 29
    hard VS 0 of 4
    VS 0 of 4
    easy VS 2 of 4
    hard HS 2 of 4
    HS 0 of 4
    easy HS 0 of 4
    hard0 of 4
    0 of 4
    easy0 of 4
    hard 4c 0 of 12
    4c 0 of 12
    easy 4c 1 of 12
    hard 4b 3 of 12
    4b 7 of 12
    easy 4b 1 of 12
    hard 4a 0 of 12
    4a 0 of 12
    easy 4a 0 of 12
    3 Stars 0 of 13
    2 Stars 8 of 13
    1 Star 5 of 13
    0 Stars 0 of 13
    Bag of ..... 0 of 13

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.