Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 29
20m. A bit aimless but pleasant enough. Follow the previous climb to the upper ledge then step out right and climb the well-positioned flake-crack near the arete to a fine finish on flutings.
Which ledge? Is it the one with the holly on, or the one above that? Going by the old definitive guide it's the latter, and you step right into the crack. In which case I can't see why this gets VS 4b, it felt more like Severe to me, HS 4b at most (well protected and not sustained). Conversely, if you are supposed to access the crack direct from the first ledge, it's much harder than the grade!
Climbed this on saturday - way too cold for climbing but what can you do. Going straight up from the first ledge is definately the way to go. Looks harder than it actually is and is certainly the only section of the climb that gives it the VS grade.
I can see why the description given here suggests the is aimless if you traverse from the second (smaller) ledge on Bishops route.