Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 77
The tall straight flake is wide, awkward and slippery but cams in the horizontal breaks make it safe enough. Swarm up the flake to a high ledge with a huge wobbly block and finish up the short wall behind, or step left onto the arete for more exposure.
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Isn't this route actually called "Robin Hood Flack Crack"??
I've always known it as Great Flake...
Zigzag Flake Crack is correct,in the 1951 climbs on gritstone vol 2 it was graded v dif!!
Standing alone, despite the nearby crowds, ZigZag Flake Crack curves and stretches like cold fingers cupping a radiator. Rounded, easy moves lead to the first of two short, exposed sequences protected beneath the ankles with traditional gear. The first is an awkward block which is capped by a pair of friendly horns whilst the second, a few steps above, is overcome by leaning out to the right and using the blunt flake for leverage rather than laybacking. Overall, a pair of friends with the combined width of a small car door can eliminate any anxiety...
Severe if you have a friend 5! Even if you don't, the layback move up onto the flake is 4a and protected by a friend 2 in the break above and left. VS is way too high.
A good beefy route requiring some determination. Not too well protected unless you have very large friends, sizes 5 and above, which most Severe leaders do not. I ended up laybacking the major crux which is going over the initial bulge at about half height. There are friends at your ankles plus an OK hex for these moves, which the way I did them felt 4c, I am willing to beleive that by udging up you could get the grade down to 4a/4b. After that the gear is not great on the route (unless you have even larger friends/big bros), but it feels good enough if you put enough in, to make it safe. Certainly worth at least HS 4a in my opinion and was a serious sandbag at the Severe 4a grade I climbed it at, someone killed themselves on this one I believe. Personally I am not unhappy with VS 4b either, definitive guide now give it VS 4a !!
PS the reason it's called zigzag flake crack can easily been seen when the climb is viewed from the side instead of the front.....
The polish stops after the awkward move; there are tales in that somewhere. I backed off this on a grey, damp, November day a few months after starting to climb (severe!). Great to finally do it.
Nasty without friends.. nowhere to put anything.
Passing the bulge is a good fight and can be protected with modest cams (slot on left wall), the flake above provides some lovely gritstone crusing.
I did this climb a while ago, but my main reason was to give my condolences to the family and friends of the lady who died on this climb a few days ago, very sad news