Zigzag Flake-crack

2 Stars
Fluttery
 VS 4b

Adjacent Routes
<< Bishop's Route < Zagrete  |  Coconut Ice > Ice Boat >>


20m. The tall and straight flake is awkward, slippery and not too well protected. Improvise up this to a ledge on top of the flake and finish up the short wall behind, or step left onto the arete for more exposure. It was also known as The Great Flake for years.
FA. Herbert Hartley 1929

USER COMMENTS

Isn't this route actually called "Robin Hood Flack Crack"??
Dave - 23/Sep/02

I've always known it as Great Flake...
Simon Caldwell - 23/Sep/02

Zigzag Flake Crack is correct,in the 1951 climbs on gritstone vol 2 it was graded v dif!!
Charlie - 25/Mar/03

Standing alone, despite the nearby crowds, ZigZag Flake Crack curves and stretches like cold fingers cupping a radiator. Rounded, easy moves lead to the first of two short, exposed sequences protected beneath the ankles with traditional gear. The first is an awkward block which is capped by a pair of friendly horns whilst the second, a few steps above, is overcome by leaning out to the right and using the blunt flake for leverage rather than laybacking. Overall, a pair of friends with the combined width of a small car door can eliminate any anxiety...
jeremy windsor - 19/Apr/03

Severe if you have a friend 5! Even if you don't, the layback move up onto the flake is 4a and protected by a friend 2 in the break above and left. VS is way too high.
Gareth Rees - 29/Sep/03

A good beefy route requiring some determination. Not too well protected unless you have very large friends, sizes 5 and above, which most Severe leaders do not. I ended up laybacking the major crux which is going over the initial bulge at about half height. There are friends at your ankles plus an OK hex for these moves, which the way I did them felt 4c, I am willing to beleive that by udging up you could get the grade down to 4a/4b. After that the gear is not great on the route (unless you have even larger friends/big bros), but it feels good enough if you put enough in, to make it safe. Certainly worth at least HS 4a in my opinion and was a serious sandbag at the Severe 4a grade I climbed it at, someone killed themselves on this one I believe. Personally I am not unhappy with VS 4b either, definitive guide now give it VS 4a !!
Woker - 06/Oct/03

PS the reason it's called zigzag flake crack can easily been seen when the climb is viewed from the side instead of the front.....
Woker - 06/Oct/03

The polish stops after the awkward move; there are tales in that somewhere. I backed off this on a grey, damp, November day a few months after starting to climb (severe!). Great to finally do it.
Paul Winder - 25/Jul/04

Nasty without friends.. nowhere to put anything.
pat - 01/Oct/04

Passing the bulge is a good fight and can be protected with modest cams (slot on left wall), the flake above provides some lovely gritstone crusing.

I'm sure many have been repulsed by the bulge. I reckon VS is about right, I reckon it would be a sandbag even at HS.
KeithS - 24/Jul/05

I did this climb a while ago, but my main reason was to give my condolences to the family and friends of the lady who died on this climb a few days ago, very sad news
robert bridges - 07/Sep/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 77
    hard HVS 0 of 26
    HVS 0 of 26
    easy HVS 0 of 26
    hard VS 1 of 26
    VS 16 of 26
    easy VS 3 of 26
    hard HS 6 of 26
    HS 0 of 26
    easy HS 0 of 26
    hard 4c 0 of 26
    4c 0 of 26
    easy 4c 2 of 26
    hard 4b 6 of 26
    4b 12 of 26
    easy 4b 1 of 26
    hard 4a 5 of 26
    4a 0 of 26
    easy 4a 0 of 26
    3 Stars 7 of 25
    2 Stars 15 of 25
    1 Star 3 of 25
    0 Stars 0 of 25
    Bag of ..... 0 of 25

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