Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 21
14m. A popular little eliminate with a fingery and stretchy start. From a short crack climb the wall to the traverse of The Little Flake-crack. Continue up the wall above trending slightly right past a couple of long reaches. Much harder for the short.
In comparison to Desperation (perhaps the hardest E1 I've done previously), this is a harder start over a much worse landing, with no gear until further off the ground. Once you get gear, there is still an interesting move or two to the top (warning, don't step right then move up, the line rises diagonally up and right to the arete up the finally section). This is far more a slightly-soft E2 than b*st*rd hard E1.
Another one of those funny gritstone grades. No, it's not safe 5c, it's 5c high above a truly dreadful landing. If you liked Phelegethoa, you'll love this!