Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 73
Reach the hanging flake from the chimney by a hard traverse (footholds scoured by nailed boots aeons ago) then layback to easy ground. A short wall concludes things.
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The start of the route is seriously hard as there is no foothold (the orginal one is now really polished!)
I don't think this route is 5a. Although the initial traverse is short, is very technical, with very polished foot holds, and when you get to the flake where you are supposed to pull up onto easier ground, you are already pumped out. I fell three times on it (on a technical n1 friend, no problem), and nearly broke an ankle against the chimney. Not what you would expect from a VS, definetedly, HVS, 5b.
Definately 5a, definately VS. Not HVS even without the gear in the initial break, as you're only about 4ft from the ground.
Ive not done it but without the gear in the break its a nasty tumble. I was belaying it when my partner fell off (trying to reverse the traverse), the cam in the break popped and he buggered his ankle on the rocks below. Didnt climb again for 4 months or so.
Did this on a misty damp day. The horizontal break for the traverse was full of slime...no footholds and slime for your hands hmmm seemed hard for 5a...
Nothing too unexpected from this one as all its difficulties are clearly on show 2m above the belayer.
Climbed this today, although I stand by what I sid about needing the protecion at the start, it is good and I felt soft 5a - noway 5b - and the rest of the route is severe or even vdiff once youre on the flake. Soft VS.
A good VD climb spoiled by a technically hard and polished traverse start.
Definately graded right, easy climbing after the traverse and not so difficult while you're on it, 5a seems about right. A mat sounds like a good idea for those pushing the grade.