The Little Flake-crack

1 Stars
Technical
 VS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Coconut Ice < Ice Boat  |  Flake Chimney > Hybrid >>


14m. Reach the small hanging flake from the chimney by a tricky traverse using very polished footholds then layback up it rapidly to easy ground. A short wall leads to the cliff top or escape up the groove on the right.
FA. Frank Elliott 1930

USER COMMENTS

The start of the route is seriously hard as there is no foothold (the orginal one is now really polished!)

The horizon crack at the start - don't put techinal friends, use forged friends with quickdraw to extend it (trust me)

Good 5a route to start with but get easier on the top.
Steve &quot;CragHead&quot; Barke - 17/Mar/03

I don't think this route is 5a. Although the initial traverse is short, is very technical, with very polished foot holds, and when you get to the flake where you are supposed to pull up onto easier ground, you are already pumped out. I fell three times on it (on a technical n1 friend, no problem), and nearly broke an ankle against the chimney. Not what you would expect from a VS, definetedly, HVS, 5b.
dycotiles - 25/Oct/04

Definately 5a, definately VS. Not HVS even without the gear in the initial break, as you're only about 4ft from the ground.
Nick - 30/Oct/04

Ive not done it but without the gear in the break its a nasty tumble. I was belaying it when my partner fell off (trying to reverse the traverse), the cam in the break popped and he buggered his ankle on the rocks below. Didnt climb again for 4 months or so.
Si - 29/Jan/05

Did this on a misty damp day. The horizontal break for the traverse was full of slime...no footholds and slime for your hands hmmm seemed hard for 5a...
sandy - 19/Mar/05

Nothing too unexpected from this one as all its difficulties are clearly on show 2m above the belayer.
I got two bits of gear in (traverse)the second bit i might have been better keeping moving to the flake...too much faff on tired arms.
Hard start for VS,worthy 5a.
Shaun Walby - 24/Jul/05

Climbed this today, although I stand by what I sid about needing the protecion at the start, it is good and I felt soft 5a - noway 5b - and the rest of the route is severe or even vdiff once youre on the flake. Soft VS.
Si dH - 24/Jul/05

A good VD climb spoiled by a technically hard and polished traverse start.
The traverse at the start is pretty horrible and probably not what people will be expecting on a VS. Although it's only 4 feet up it's strenuous to place gear (making it hard to place well).

I think in retrospect I'd of enjoyed it more by putting a mat down and bouldering the start then soloing the top bit.
MeMeMe - 15/Aug/05

Definately graded right, easy climbing after the traverse and not so difficult while you're on it, 5a seems about right. A mat sounds like a good idea for those pushing the grade.
David Berry - 18/Feb/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 73
    hard HVS 0 of 25
    HVS 0 of 25
    easy HVS 4 of 25
    hard VS 13 of 25
    VS 6 of 25
    easy VS 2 of 25
    hard HS 0 of 25
    HS 0 of 25
    easy HS 0 of 25
    hard 5b 0 of 24
    5b 0 of 24
    easy 5b 1 of 24
    hard 5a 8 of 24
    5a 13 of 24
    easy 5a 1 of 24
    hard 4c 1 of 24
    4c 0 of 24
    easy 4c 0 of 24
    3 Stars 0 of 24
    2 Stars 1 of 24
    1 Star 19 of 24
    0 Stars 4 of 24
    Bag of ..... 0 of 24

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