Whillans' Pendulum/Black Magic

3 Stars
Reachy
Strong
 HVS 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Wright's Route < Wall of Sound  |  Macleod's Variation > Hargreaves' Original >>


A route of contrasts - the start is very hard for the short. Swing out right to jugs and a ledge on the front face. Move up awkwardly then step left on to the narrow side face and climb this delicately by lovely moves in great positions.
FA. Don Whillans 1958. FA. (Black Magic) Giles Barker 1976

USER COMMENTS

This is a brilliant route - 3 stars. Good contrast in styles from the powerful moves at the start to the delicate ones required above. Its one delicate move after another on those breaks. Superb.
Huw D Jones - 15/Jul/03

This is a brilliant route - 3 stars. Good contrast in styles from the powerful moves at the start to the delicate ones required above. Its one delicate move after another on those breaks. Superb.
Huw D Jones - 15/Jul/03

Colossal route,the monkey moves at the bottom definitely easier for the lanky; the next move after reaching the ledge on the slab/arete is a fine contrast - the climb would be terrifying for clumsy goons like me without a rack cams...
john evans - 20/Aug/03

Absolutely gorgeous route. Start looks impossible until you work it out! Lovely climbing at the crux with adequate gear :)
Si dH - 17/Aug/05

And does the person who showed you how to do the start not get any credit Si :p
fenclimb - 25/Aug/05

worth three stars , start looks impossible until it clicks into place ....or not , really nice moves above , good friction etc etc
rayash - 21/Nov/05

Fantastic - the third hold is a very loooong reach, then you let go and its like being on the monkey bars.
The Black Magic slab is such a contrast. Cool head climbing, nothing spontanesous like the Whillian Pendulum
stonedonkey - 15/Oct/06

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 67
    hard E1 0 of 22
    E1 0 of 22
    easy E1 1 of 22
    hard HVS 2 of 22
    HVS 16 of 22
    easy HVS 1 of 22
    hard VS 2 of 22
    VS 0 of 22
    easy VS 0 of 22
    hard 5c 0 of 22
    5c 0 of 22
    easy 5c 0 of 22
    hard 5b 0 of 22
    5b 17 of 22
    easy 5b 2 of 22
    hard 5a 3 of 22
    5a 0 of 22
    easy 5a 0 of 22
    3 Stars 19 of 23
    2 Stars 3 of 23
    1 Star 1 of 23
    0 Stars 0 of 23
    Bag of ..... 0 of 23

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