Whillans' Pendulum and Black Magic

3 Stars
Strong
 HVS 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Wright's Route < Wall of Sound  |  Macleod's Variation > Hargreaves' Original >>


16m. A route of contrasts. Swing out right to jugs then a ledge on the front face. Move up awkwardly then step left onto the narrow side face of the slab and ascend this delicately. Large Friends protect the precarious upper crux moves.
FA. Don Whillans 1958. FA. (Black Magic) Giles Barker 1976

USER COMMENTS

This is a brilliant route - 3 stars. Good contrast in styles from the powerful moves at the start to the delicate ones required above. Its one delicate move after another on those breaks. Superb.
Huw D Jones - 15/Jul/03

This is a brilliant route - 3 stars. Good contrast in styles from the powerful moves at the start to the delicate ones required above. Its one delicate move after another on those breaks. Superb.
Huw D Jones - 15/Jul/03

Colossal route,the monkey moves at the bottom definitely easier for the lanky; the next move after reaching the ledge on the slab/arete is a fine contrast - the climb would be terrifying for clumsy goons like me without a rack cams...
john evans - 20/Aug/03

Absolutely gorgeous route. Start looks impossible until you work it out! Lovely climbing at the crux with adequate gear :)
Si dH - 17/Aug/05

And does the person who showed you how to do the start not get any credit Si :p
fenclimb - 25/Aug/05

worth three stars , start looks impossible until it clicks into place ....or not , really nice moves above , good friction etc etc
rayash - 21/Nov/05

Fantastic - the third hold is a very loooong reach, then you let go and its like being on the monkey bars.
The Black Magic slab is such a contrast. Cool head climbing, nothing spontanesous like the Whillian Pendulum
stonedonkey - 15/Oct/06

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 67
    hard E1 0 of 22
    E1 0 of 22
    easy E1 1 of 22
    hard HVS 2 of 22
    HVS 16 of 22
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    hard 5b 0 of 22
    5b 17 of 22
    easy 5b 2 of 22
    hard 5a 3 of 22
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    3 Stars 19 of 23
    2 Stars 3 of 23
    1 Star 1 of 23
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    Bag of ..... 0 of 23

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