Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 296
One of Stanage's choice VS climbs. From a boulder, pull up and left onto the slab, traverse left then move up and right to a resting ledge. Continuing up the centre of the slab trending slightly right. Well protected with enough cams, though it used to be very bold.
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Nice one Albert - 1928!
Take lots of cams! It's a little exposed otherwise...
Seems easier than High Neb. But only just.
If you look carefully enough some good wires can be arranged for protection. In fact I almost had to leave one there!
Delicate moves from rounded break to rounded break, coupled with being on one of the tallest buttresses at Stanage, make this a relentless and exposed route that should only be attempted by solid VS 4c leaders. Good protection with a decent rack of cams though; I even managed to find a good hex placement. What a route - fantastic!
Disagree about only being for solid VS leaders. It was my first VS lead, and should give no problems if balancy slabs are your strong point.
Fair enough, but if balancy slabs are not your strong point and you've only led a few VS's, then doing this route might not be a good idea.
You can place a whole rack of cams on this route from 0 to 4! Also at least 3 good hex placements. Fantastic route. Not too straight forward and keeps interest throughout. Amazing!
Sorry - couldnt see what the fuss was, every move was very similar and well protected, not in the same league as mississipi or high neb
Decided to do this one as Christmas Crack was busy and i'm fully glad that i did. Amazing route! Interested and slightly tricky start with a bit of a run out in the middle to get the heart pumping untill you reach the decent break!
The natural route is to wander left and right along the breaks to find the easiest way up -- this reduces the technical grade to 4b or so. Straight up the middle is 4c but a bit artificial.
Do it on a really hot day (at least 30 deg c)with no cams for a full E grade experience!!!
Plenty of placements for Hexentrics and cams.As said earlier a bit repetetive and easy at the grade if you pay attention to your footwork.
a good route that's well protected. i rekon the traverse start is the hardest bit.
great route, and for me it felt harder and more sustained at the grade than high neb, don't listen to the old boys who say it's solo without cams, hexes would have come in usefull if I'd taken them up there. Found a bomber ballnut placement about half way up also...
i aggree with dave i did on a super hot day with hexes and wires, absolutely fantastic a great end to the day, thn off to the pub for a pint!
There is an in situ rusty pigeon on the top break, left of the fern bush
I loved every move on this route. You don't need cams, I saw some guy do the entire thing with hexes and nuts and he laced it as much as anyone.
I did it without cams, just hexes and a wire. Little bit scary but more interesting than just plugging cams in.
a great climb take at least five cams for peace of mind . Dont bother with hexes or wires , I didnt take them , just dozens of cams mostly medium sizes
Great slab! nice and long, one of my first VSs. I used: 1 nut, 6 cams, and 2/3 tricams. There's a couple of marginal placements on there which scared me somewhat with the sideways pull of my slightly zig-zag route.
This climb was my warm up for Easter Rib, and very nice it was.
Great route, im preety soid at HVS but this is nice and exposed. Never hard, just exposed and delicate :)
After many years of trying, I finally found this climb witout a queue. A lovely climb - worth the wait.
Excellent route, very well protected with cams. I only used 1 nut to protect the initial traverse. Should be a top 50 in my opinion.
Overrated IMO, starts getting repetitive at the top. Good leftwards start (crux), then loads of big slopers to the top, all well protected gear. Airy.
As a total Noob to outdoor climbs i joined a club for a weekends climbing, although we were bottom roped i found this was a good intro to a bit of height and exposure. Don't laugh to loud i am a noob after all LOL.
Did this one not long after starting to lead VS and although the moves are all there I made a real job with the gear (didn't manage to place anything that I would have hung my hat on) Absolutely kacked myself and was very relieved to get to the top - felt just like a solo.