Hargreaves' Original

3 Stars
Rounded
 VS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< Whillans' Pendulum and Black Magic < Macleod's Variation  |  The Flange > April Crack >>


18m. One of Stanage's choice VSs. From a boulder, pull up and left onto the slab, traverse left then move up and right to a resting ledge. Continuing up the centre of the slab trending slightly rightwards. Well protected with modern technology. Photo page 96.
FA. Albert Hargreaves 1928

USER COMMENTS

Nice one Albert - 1928!
Ian - 05/May/02

Take lots of cams! It's a little exposed otherwise...
RobS - 10/Jun/02

Seems easier than High Neb. But only just.
Martin - 29/Jul/02

If you look carefully enough some good wires can be arranged for protection. In fact I almost had to leave one there!
Martin - 17/Apr/03

Delicate moves from rounded break to rounded break, coupled with being on one of the tallest buttresses at Stanage, make this a relentless and exposed route that should only be attempted by solid VS 4c leaders. Good protection with a decent rack of cams though; I even managed to find a good hex placement. What a route - fantastic!
James McN - 07/Jul/03

Disagree about only being for solid VS leaders. It was my first VS lead, and should give no problems if balancy slabs are your strong point.
Simon Caldwell - 07/Jul/03

Fair enough, but if balancy slabs are not your strong point and you've only led a few VS's, then doing this route might not be a good idea.
James McN - 07/Jul/03

You can place a whole rack of cams on this route from 0 to 4! Also at least 3 good hex placements. Fantastic route. Not too straight forward and keeps interest throughout. Amazing!
Dave F - 15/Jul/03

Sorry - couldnt see what the fuss was, every move was very similar and well protected, not in the same league as mississipi or high neb
Laurie - 19/Aug/03

Decided to do this one as Christmas Crack was busy and i'm fully glad that i did. Amazing route! Interested and slightly tricky start with a bit of a run out in the middle to get the heart pumping untill you reach the decent break!
Andy Townsend - 30/Aug/03

The natural route is to wander left and right along the breaks to find the easiest way up -- this reduces the technical grade to 4b or so. Straight up the middle is 4c but a bit artificial.
Gareth Rees - 04/Sep/03

Do it on a really hot day (at least 30 deg c)with no cams for a full E grade experience!!!
Dave - 17/Oct/03

Plenty of placements for Hexentrics and cams.As said earlier a bit repetetive and easy at the grade if you pay attention to your footwork.
mart - 28/Apr/04

a good route that's well protected. i rekon the traverse start is the hardest bit.
leon skeldon - 24/May/04

great route, and for me it felt harder and more sustained at the grade than high neb, don't listen to the old boys who say it's solo without cams, hexes would have come in usefull if I'd taken them up there. Found a bomber ballnut placement about half way up also...

The rockfax and definitive lines differ here yet again.
Woker - 24/Aug/04

i aggree with dave i did on a super hot day with hexes and wires, absolutely fantastic a great end to the day, thn off to the pub for a pint!
Sam and will - 14/Mar/05

There is an in situ rusty pigeon on the top break, left of the fern bush
MattG - 09/Apr/05

I loved every move on this route. You don't need cams, I saw some guy do the entire thing with hexes and nuts and he laced it as much as anyone.
lps - 28/Jul/05

I did it without cams, just hexes and a wire. Little bit scary but more interesting than just plugging cams in.
grit-addict - 18/Aug/05

a great climb take at least five cams for peace of mind . Dont bother with hexes or wires , I didnt take them , just dozens of cams mostly medium sizes
rayash - 21/Nov/05

Great slab! nice and long, one of my first VSs. I used: 1 nut, 6 cams, and 2/3 tricams. There's a couple of marginal placements on there which scared me somewhat with the sideways pull of my slightly zig-zag route.
munky - 26/Jul/06

This climb was my warm up for Easter Rib, and very nice it was.
Paul Tomo - 08/Mar/07

Great route, im preety soid at HVS but this is nice and exposed. Never hard, just exposed and delicate :)
Adam Moroz - 08/Oct/07

After many years of trying, I finally found this climb witout a queue. A lovely climb - worth the wait.
albie niedojadlo - 12/May/08

Excellent route, very well protected with cams. I only used 1 nut to protect the initial traverse. Should be a top 50 in my opinion.
Andrew Harrison - 28/Jun/08

Overrated IMO, starts getting repetitive at the top. Good leftwards start (crux), then loads of big slopers to the top, all well protected gear. Airy.
mark20 - 27/Aug/08

As a total Noob to outdoor climbs i joined a club for a weekends climbing, although we were bottom roped i found this was a good intro to a bit of height and exposure. Don't laugh to loud i am a noob after all LOL.
andy - 23/Sep/09

Did this one not long after starting to lead VS and although the moves are all there I made a real job with the gear (didn't manage to place anything that I would have hung my hat on) Absolutely kacked myself and was very relieved to get to the top - felt just like a solo.
Must go back and do it properly now I know what I'm doing.
As for the earlier comment Mississippi is a path compared to this !!
Mark Reed - 22/Oct/12

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 296
    hard HVS 0 of 100
    HVS 0 of 100
    easy HVS 0 of 100
    hard VS 24 of 100
    VS 64 of 100
    easy VS 11 of 100
    hard HS 1 of 100
    HS 0 of 100
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    hard 5a 0 of 97
    5a 0 of 97
    easy 5a 0 of 97
    hard 4c 2 of 97
    4c 79 of 97
    easy 4c 12 of 97
    hard 4b 4 of 97
    4b 0 of 97
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    3 Stars 89 of 99
    2 Stars 7 of 99
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