Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 224
16m. Climb the vertical crack that ends at 6m then traverse left to the base of the continuation crack which is entered by a hard move on thin jams. Follow it more easily into a right-facing corner and finish up this. The Direct Start is the unprotected 5a problem incorporated in Twintrin. Photo page 34.
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Again this is good route but when you traverse to left need a good strength on your hand by jamming onto a thin crack. But after jamming the thin crack it get easier.
A good route with nice moves, well worth doing. Found it quite strenuous placing gear in lower section, eases significantly after that.
I didn't think this was worth 3 stars. It's good but not as good as many other routes nearby. he ledge and easy top spoil it a bit.
I'd tend to agree - if you are just pushing vs then it's probably going to be a three star route for you, but otherwise I reckon 2 stars is on the nose - mainly due to the upper half being only vdiff
Suprisingly sustained as it doesn't really look it. Partly depends how long it takes you to work out the traverse and place the gear. Had to down climb twice and rest.
Well I'm just pushing VS and it wasn't a 3 star route for me. Just one move of 4c, the rest was disappointingly easy.
Makes a good varied VS 5a with the direct start (great moves, and a Friend 1) and an unprotected but pleasant finale on the face to left of the usual dreary finish.
Placing protection on the traverse and getting established in the crack is deceptively strenuous and can quickly bring on Popeyes fore-arms.After that it eases,plow on!
The gear is far too good and there's far too much to be VS. HS at the most and no 3 stars as the top is boring as hell and only one 4c move. Fun with numb hands though ;-)
For extra excitment try the direct finish going up the wall (listed as Twintrin E1 5c in the '88 BMC guide). Excellent balancy climbing on poor slopers with good gear in the break above the first crack.
Sorry forgot to say that thats going straight up the wall above the end of the first crack (i.e. don't traverse left to the second crack). You end up the big ledge anyway and can finish as desired.
VS 4c - just. The move into the crack is tricky but well protected; the crux seemed to be the taverse. Not at all sustained really as footholds are invariably good and the angle is pretty laid back. An ideal first VS.
Pretty much benchmark VS I would say. The initial crack is straightforward with good gear, the traverse is easy if you're tall (I'm 6'0") and the crux move up into the second crack passed me by in a blur. The second crack is quite polished around the edges, which makes the jams a little less secure that one would like. The crux for me was getting stuck in the chimney section at the top!