Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 21
A superb excercise in sustained fingery wall climbing. 1) 5+. It is not possible to lower off so either abseil or use an intermediate anchor. The start is a little runout but nut placements are around to supplement the bolts. Worth 3 stars. 2) 5+. A diagonal link pitch. Great rock. 3) 6c. A magnificently positioned pitch but with old bolts. 4) 6a. Another quality pitch. Descent - Abseil down the route on double 50m ropes. DonÕt be tempted to walk off, it will ruin the day!
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Pitch 3 looked awesome, but the bolts looked old AND spaced out.
Proper grades 6a,5,6c,6a - the gear on the whole route is fine. Double 50m ropes needed.
Fantastic route even though I only did the first pitch. I only climb 5c so I wouldn't put it at 6a unless I was climbing out of my boots that day. I was a bit on edge for the first 25m but it eased off after that.
Awesome line. Did it with a 70m rope bought from the local shop (suspiciously cheap) and on absail found that either the route more than 35m (as described in the guide book) or my rope was ..err not quite 70m!
Yes, it's a good 45m. Superb pitch. Mostly sustained 6b+, with a crux sequence of 2 or 3 moves ending quite a way above the bolt
The route now has new bolts on the main pitch. Note that the line shown on the mini-guide topo is too far to the left (it is the line of Enzo)
Only climbed the 1st pitch but superb! The 3rd & 4th pitches look amazing, must train harder before returning.
I wouldn't put the 1st pitch as 6a either.It's hard for 5c but not 6a
Best route at Poltrana? The 3rd pitch is steady UK 5c up to the roof, but jugs over it. The bolts are too far apart for a sports route. There are now 2 new pitches up the headwall which should make it even better.
The first pitch is *not* 6a; 5c at most, possibly less. Single 60m rope is enough to abseil from the top of the first pitch (mid-way abseil station by a tree on the lef). Godd climbing, but getting polished, and if the top pitch is too hard for you, there are better lines at the crag (like the 6a/5c nameless 5 pitch climb right of HR85).
This route should definitely have the flutter sign. The precarious crux feels a long long way from the bolt!!Other sections are well run out as well.
Be prepared for a 50 footer if you blow any of the moves on the hard pitch E5 6a trad grade .