Rusty Crack

1 Stars
Crimpy
 HVS 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Rugosity Wall < Rusty Wall  |  Via Media > Via Dexter Direct >>


10m. The left-hand crack has a hard start using polished footholds and painful finger jams. Although hard it can be well protected with small wires.

USER COMMENTS

I reckon the start has got harder over the years due to people putting friends in the finger jams. Best soloed, the difficulties soon ease.
Chris Moor - 17/Dec/02

No need to put gear in for the start, just get your belayer to spot you, a good route, nicely technical
Marrow of wrath - 28/May/04

Good route wasn't happy with my gear though till a 3rd of the way up i encountered a bomber friend placement,agree with the spotter comment.
Adam Moroz - 04/May/05

Not 5c. great protection all the way ad easy to place. It has a couple of 5a/5b moves at the bottom. Good fun, did it in the dark.
Joe Larner - 22/Apr/07

This route is a boulder problem with gear placements, nice route but to short
Paul Tomo - 10/Jun/07

Fell off this on first attempt, lower off tried again and got the start, above is easier.
shaun walby - 17/Apr/10

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 86
    hard E1 0 of 29
    E1 0 of 29
    easy E1 1 of 29
    hard HVS 2 of 29
    HVS 19 of 29
    easy HVS 5 of 29
    hard VS 2 of 29
    VS 0 of 29
    easy VS 0 of 29
    hard 6a 0 of 30
    6a 0 of 30
    easy 6a 0 of 30
    hard 5c 4 of 30
    5c 16 of 30
    easy 5c 4 of 30
    hard 5b 6 of 30
    5b 0 of 30
    easy 5b 0 of 30
    3 Stars 0 of 27
    2 Stars 4 of 27
    1 Star 20 of 27
    0 Stars 3 of 27
    Bag of ..... 0 of 27

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