Via Media

2 Stars
 VS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< Rusty Wall < Rusty Crack  |  Via Dexter Direct > Oblique Crack >>

The protectable and pleasant right-hand crack finishing up the short and easy chockstoned chimney above.
FA. Ron Townsend 1949


There is advantage of having thin hand to do this route. It not easy route. I would say this is Hard 4c.
Stephen Barker - 24/Jun/02

Excellent 2 Star route in my book. This is one of those technical edging style of 4c routes - at the opposite end of the scale to the thrutchy as **** category! Good gear on small nuts wherever you need it. A pleasure to climb, but it helps if you can crimp or finger-lock on a couple of the moves.
James McN - 06/Jul/03

Excellent practice.Either stay with the crack entirely(technical)or make use of adjacent foot and hand holds to calm the nerves.
mart - 28/Apr/04

lovely climb at the grade recommend it to all!!
John Sergeant - 24/Jan/05

Lovely climb, a piece of gear after every move, and as mart points out, an abundance of holds either side for those who don't like cracks (must try Via Dexter Direct next :)
Neil - 20/Apr/05

Nice route, hard 4c though.
Adam Moroz - 04/May/05

V.Nice little route. Found 4c about right, Would be nice if it were 5m or so longer tho
Tom M Williams - 24/Nov/05

Very nice route, you are straight into the problem from the start, 4c about right.
Paul Tomo - 06/Jul/06

Soloed it and though that it was very straightforward for the grade and if the gear is as good as previous comments have suggested, I canít agree with this as VS Ė felt more like a Severe.
Johni Hibbert - 15/Oct/06

Felt spot on the money for vs 4c to me. Unusual for grit at the grade in that it's climbing on mainly positive holds, and your not using the crack much.
CurlyStevo - 17/Oct/06

It's 4c but not VS. All the difficult climbing is within the first 10ft, above a nice flat landing.
Glen Harding - 14/Jul/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 258
    hard HVS 0 of 87
    HVS 0 of 87
    easy HVS 1 of 87
    hard VS 0 of 87
    VS 64 of 87
    easy VS 20 of 87
    hard HS 2 of 87
    HS 0 of 87
    easy HS 0 of 87
    hard 5a 0 of 86
    5a 0 of 86
    easy 5a 1 of 86
    hard 4c 15 of 86
    4c 58 of 86
    easy 4c 11 of 86
    hard 4b 1 of 86
    4b 0 of 86
    easy 4b 0 of 86
    3 Stars 5 of 85
    2 Stars 59 of 85
    1 Star 20 of 85
    0 Stars 1 of 85
    Bag of ..... 0 of 85

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