Via Dexter Direct

1 Stars
 E2 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Rusty Crack < Via Media  |  Oblique Crack > Oblique Buttress >>

The centre of the wall is quite technical and has no protection. Variations to the right are easier (HVS 5a ) but inferior.
FA. Tony Moulam 1951


Would this make the very pleasant wall just right Via Dexter HVS 5a?
Jon Greengrass - 17/Jun/03

Totally absorbing, but the moves are all there, even if the gear isn't....
Brian S - 19/Nov/03

replying to Jon: Yes, and it's quite good too, follow the obvious line up the curving ledges just left of oblique crack, sparse gear without an easily placed side runner in the crack
poo to you - 18/Jun/04

Some really nice, technical moves make this route well worthwhile. I think it makes sense to place a wire in Via Dexter to protect the move over the overlap. This can be placed without any deviation off route. The HVS way, directly up from the obvious big jug, isn't nearly as interesting.
Tony M - 15/Jul/04

Nice technical route. Thought the gear was good - managed to fit two 00 friends in the break above the crux. The crux itself is a bit committing though. For the E2 5C I think a side runner should be considered cheating.
Rob Brown - 03/Jun/05

Both lines are excellant and independent, and both should be in the guide as seperate routes. And both go straight up the wall - I don't see any reason to use the big jug on the right if doing the left hand (E2) version
Chris the Tall - 13/Dec/05

Excellent and absorbing, but escapable. I didn't get any gear in until near the top.
lowersharpnose - 10/Sep/07

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 66
    hard E3 0 of 23
    E3 0 of 23
    easy E3 0 of 23
    hard E2 1 of 23
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    hard 5c 1 of 23
    5c 12 of 23
    easy 5c 7 of 23
    hard 5b 3 of 23
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