Narrow Buttress

2 Stars
 VS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< Oblique Crack < Straight Chimney  |  Hollybush Crack > Queersville >>


14m. Climb the right arete then move over on to the left-hand edge briefly before traversing back to the right again and climbing directly to a wild juggy finish. It is often started direct via a tricky 5a move.
FA. Ron Townsend 1949

USER COMMENTS

Slightly spoilt as the middle section is right next to the descent route but otherwise excellent and varied. Delicate slabs and juggy overhangs!
Dave F - 16/Sep/02

Jees, what a top out, not the best one to try after a year or two off gritstone :)
richardh - 11/Nov/02

The direct start needs good balance! Not much gear - feels more like HVS?
Nick Smith - 23/Mar/03

The direct start is called 'Straight and Narrow' and given HVS 5a in the BMC guide, which sounds about right to me.
Nick Smith - 24/Mar/03

Superb route, run out and balancy in the middle, exposed at strenuous at the top. The only thing stopping it getting 3 stars is the ease of escape onto either the descent route or Hollybush crack.
Simon C - 27/Apr/03

superb, feels like a grade harder high neb buttress, the direct start is best and the top out is wild !
Jon Greengrass - 26/Sep/03

It's not really all that run out, you can get a 00 friend in above you head early on. Plenty of gear above that including some cunning nuts. I think I did the direct start which didn't feel worth 5a. Excellent top out.
Swig - 25/May/04

Did direct start and cant make my mind up about the grade, i'd say... easy 5a IMO.Really nice route though, Swung in from the right for the top out expecting there to be a few more holds then there where...
Adam Moroz - 04/May/05

very good route, im a VS leader and thought the top out was very hard, the beach whale or belly flop technique worked a treat but i spent too long hanging around to place gear i ended up really pumped out and struggled to do the last move
Shaun Dutton - 06/Jun/05

Best to go up and place you last pieces and then downclimb for a rest before blasting through the finish. Good route.
Swig - 06/Jun/05

Direct start i thought was pretty standard VS4c, climbing is excellent for the grade with great final moves through the slight overhang.
Shaun Walby - 24/Jul/05

Like Nick Id have said direct was fair at HVS 5a, the second or third move (up towards the ledge) definitely felt 5a if you dont use the arete and the start is a bit run out (although soft) 5a, although its also a bit contrived. I can imagine the top being fun for a VS leader, although its really a relatively simple mantel if you keep your head together.
Si dH - 29/Mar/06

Moving strictly straight up the slab gives fairly tricky moves and couldn't find any gear till 6m? up so not to be taken lightly - easy HVS 5a I'd say, although it does feel slightly artificial and use of either arete definately lowers the grade to VS 4c. A star for the slabby technicalities and another for the gung-ho top out!
kristian birchall - 03/Jul/06

This is my best VS route yet, delicate and balance start not to bad in the mid section but the last section and the finish wass brill, will do this route again. VS 4c yes
Paul Tomo - 19/Jul/06

Lovely route only slightly spoint by the number of people coming down the descent on the left. A little run out in the middle but plenty of good gear above and below there. The top out is really good fun and not that difficult, there are plenty of huge holds. Couldn't really see the 4c move tho, and I'm only a VS leader!!!
Tim M - 23/Aug/06

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 152
    hard HVS 0 of 51
    HVS 0 of 51
    easy HVS 1 of 51
    hard VS 10 of 51
    VS 38 of 51
    easy VS 2 of 51
    hard HS 0 of 51
    HS 0 of 51
    easy HS 0 of 51
    hard 5a 0 of 50
    5a 0 of 50
    easy 5a 2 of 50
    hard 4c 19 of 50
    4c 23 of 50
    easy 4c 4 of 50
    hard 4b 2 of 50
    4b 0 of 50
    easy 4b 0 of 50
    3 Stars 20 of 51
    2 Stars 31 of 51
    1 Star 0 of 51
    0 Stars 0 of 51
    Bag of ..... 0 of 51

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