Hollybush Crack Top 50

3 Stars
 VD

Adjacent Routes
<< Straight Chimney < Narrow Buttress  |  Queersville > The Nose >>


14m. The clean-cut corner-crack is steep and excellent. The lower section has some polished footholds and is the crux but the more imposing upper part is juggy and proves to be impressive at the grade. Protection is excellent throughout.
FA. George Bower 1926

USER COMMENTS

Top half is great fun, but I only gave it one star because the bottom section is tricky and dangerously polished. Get that overhead wire in before you set off!
RobD - 14/Oct/02

Very slippery/frustrating start leads to a plesent route.
Keith - 17/Oct/02

One of the top 10 routes in the world - however long you're away from the grit, this one welcomes you back like an old frind, The finishing moves are superb and it can be enjoyed in any weather.
steve aisthorpe - 16/Mar/03

I'd agree about the slippy start. I'd even suggest that it should be regraded to HVD because of it. Once you've started though it turns into a fantastic route.
Craig - 23/Jul/03

The slippery holds at the start are easily avoided if you stick to the corner crack from the very beginning. You'll need some techniques not easily practised at the wall though ;-)
Simon Caldwell - 23/Jul/03

Lovely climb, no problems with the grade reported here, although it is a very traditional climb. I think you need to use more arm bars/chimney technique if you find your feet are slipping, I thought it was steady as she goes.
Woker - 18/Aug/03

T'aint really that slippery. Or maybe it was just the strange knee jam manouevre I used. Lovely route though.
victim of mathematics - 09/Apr/04

Just seems to keep coming. Lovely vertical route though. Seemed more strenuous to stop and put gear in than to keep climbing, hope my second didn't mind. :op
Andrew M - 30/Apr/04

Definitely the hard end of VD, and a good
preparation for HVD. Didn't find the start that slippy (and used plenty of kneejams/armbars on the way up). Got the first nut in though, and then knocked it out on the way past, so just continued upwards till I found some better gear!
Nutkey - 31/May/04

only tricky move can be overcome easily with either a fistjam or some slightly committing laybacking, and the steep section is juggy. Good climb at the grade.
Si - 22/Jul/04

easy VD,a cruise, excellent route
jay - 23/Sep/04

Now that is a great route
Ander - 13/Mar/05

This a hard Vdiff in my opinion - I've led it 3 or 4 times and is always a pleasure. A definite 3 star outing.
Andy M - 30/Aug/05

must have lead this route 4 or 5 times and never fails to put a smile on my face.Good to look back on and just enjoy climbing well within your grade
chris elfleet - 30/Oct/05

Who says polished routes can't be fun ? The holds are so positive you hardly even notice it.
Chris the Tall - 28/Apr/06

I don't often like VDs but this crack is very nice. As said the only bit that requires friction is close to the ground so no excuses.
Tiago - 13/Jun/06

Absolutely brilliant. Slow, continuous movement using jugs that guide you up the corner with various techniques. Enjoyable the whole way. Definitely 3* and top 50. Much better than Flying Buttress!
Pythonist - 08/Sep/07

i,m not a strong lead climber (hs 4b/4c), but this route just seemed to flow really nicely, big hand holds at the bottom, didnt notice the polish!and the laybacks are all on big holds. excellent route
Mark Stephens - 30/Apr/08

Lovely climb! For my money, felt at harder end of the grade; buried a nut in the first obvious placement which proved tricky to remove too....
SJW - 13/Jun/10

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 189
    hard HVD 0 of 95
    HVD 0 of 95
    easy HVD 11 of 95
    hard VD 43 of 95
    VD 39 of 95
    easy VD 2 of 95
    hard0 of 95
    0 of 95
    easy0 of 95
    3 Stars 80 of 94
    2 Stars 10 of 94
    1 Star 4 of 94
    0 Stars 0 of 94
    Bag of ..... 0 of 94

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