Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 189
The clean-cut corner-crack is steep and excellent. The lower section polished some polished footholds and is the crux but the imposing upper part is juggy and proves to be impressive at the grade. Protection is excellent throughout.
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Top half is great fun, but I only gave it one star because the bottom section is tricky and dangerously polished. Get that overhead wire in before you set off!
Very slippery/frustrating start leads to a plesent route.
One of the top 10 routes in the world - however long you're away from the grit, this one welcomes you back like an old frind, The finishing moves are superb and it can be enjoyed in any weather.
I'd agree about the slippy start. I'd even suggest that it should be regraded to HVD because of it. Once you've started though it turns into a fantastic route.
The slippery holds at the start are easily avoided if you stick to the corner crack from the very beginning. You'll need some techniques not easily practised at the wall though ;-)
Lovely climb, no problems with the grade reported here, although it is a very traditional climb. I think you need to use more arm bars/chimney technique if you find your feet are slipping, I thought it was steady as she goes.
T'aint really that slippery. Or maybe it was just the strange knee jam manouevre I used. Lovely route though.
Just seems to keep coming. Lovely vertical route though. Seemed more strenuous to stop and put gear in than to keep climbing, hope my second didn't mind. :op
Definitely the hard end of VD, and a good
only tricky move can be overcome easily with either a fistjam or some slightly committing laybacking, and the steep section is juggy. Good climb at the grade.
easy VD,a cruise, excellent route
Now that is a great route
This a hard Vdiff in my opinion - I've led it 3 or 4 times and is always a pleasure. A definite 3 star outing.
must have lead this route 4 or 5 times and never fails to put a smile on my face.Good to look back on and just enjoy climbing well within your grade
Who says polished routes can't be fun ? The holds are so positive you hardly even notice it.
I don't often like VDs but this crack is very nice. As said the only bit that requires friction is close to the ground so no excuses.
Absolutely brilliant. Slow, continuous movement using jugs that guide you up the corner with various techniques. Enjoyable the whole way. Definitely 3* and top 50. Much better than Flying Buttress!
i,m not a strong lead climber (hs 4b/4c), but this route just seemed to flow really nicely, big hand holds at the bottom, didnt notice the polish!and the laybacks are all on big holds. excellent route
Lovely climb! For my money, felt at harder end of the grade; buried a nut in the first obvious placement which proved tricky to remove too....