Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 287
Start up a jutting rib on the right side of the bay, then stretch out left to ledges. Climb to a broken flake under the roof and make a long reach to the ledge above. Swing right to easy ground.
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The technical crux is actually the low stretch to the flat ledges, not the top reach.
The large unattached block that used to sit on the mantelshelf ledge near the top is now lying in bits at the bottom of the climb. Apparently this makes the mantel move "a bit scarier", although still a 5a move.
A definite classic on gritsone and an amazing route in its own right. The route has two main cruxs. The scary crux and the technical crux, at the bottom striding out over the ledges is the technical crux and then moving out right later and mantleing the ledge is the scary crux. The route is poorly protected at the bottom but a good friend (2.5) protects the mantleshelf move.
fantastic route, wish i'd had a friend 2.5 coz i was brickin it in front of a group of laughing schoolies with a million small wires behind the flake somewhere well below me feet.
Yeah I think the real crux is near the start. I found that worrying - however the flake was much easier than I was expecting. All in all a brilliant route.
I'd agree that the lower stretch is the crux. I'm only 5'7" and three quarters and it didnt seem a long reach to me at the top. A great route though.
I must have been doing something wrong becuase no one else has voted for E1. The wire placements seem very worn and most of mine fell out, the bottom crux is precarious and you'd be lucky if the wire held.
my mate fell off this from the lower crux and landed arse-first on the spike below. ouch.
the bottom section is definately the crux though the top section looks like it is before you start making the moves.
A climb that is worthy of the tag 'A Classic'.
this is a 'proper HVS'. the traverse left is quite technical but in my opinion not all that difficult. i found the crux to be manteling onto the ledge. im 5"6ish and didnt find it reachy
Awesome. Theres a good number 2 nut at the bottom if you take the time to fiddle it in, but still the crux IMO. Top reach is easy for 5a off a good layaway hold, although the mantle is pretty hard - I was expecting it to be over after Id made the reach to the ledge and got a shock! Those top moves to the ledge look very intimidating from below.
The first time I did this I didn't hang around on the scary crux - which made the move feel more like E1 since I was protected by poor wires below and left. The second time around I took it slower and had a better look around, and found some excellent medium friend placements below the long reach up - so for the level-headed its a solid HVS. And three-stars-worth of anyone's money.
found the traverse move the first time no problem, the longest reach is standing on the middle ledge and getting gear into the horizontal crack above you before you move right to the good hold under the mantleshelf, which i had a epic on and ended getting through it in no style but lots of thuggery. Did anyone else find the next move off the ledge tricky
Superb. Lower crux goes ok when you summon the gumption to release from the sinker with your right hand. Top crux was not as reachy as I was anticipating. Felt well protected to me.
Excellent route from start to finish, the wire placements are a little worn but with a 2.5 cam in the top right hand pocket who needs wires.
Well i don't remember there being a 'technical' traverse i just stood on the flange looked over at the ledge and moved across to it. Then the 'hard mantel' was a piece of piss, hands on ledge then hand in wire crack and step up. Then the long reach wasn't that long. I loved the route tho, really nice climbing and not that hard.
Very nice and I was only slightly put off by the stupid name.
Awesome. From the initial reach to the hand ledge, through to the final reach for the top I loved it. I would say it is at the top end of HVS, 5a but in no way should it be upgraded. Such a rewarding route at that grade, pushing up on that pebble...
Lovely varied route, quite a change from the usual gritstone HVS. But so cold I couldn't feel me fingers!