Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 4
A good adventurous route on which a full rack is required. Worth a UK grade of E2 5c. 1) 5+. A short pitch up the crack system to a belay on blocks. 2) 6a. Follow the line leftwards which is fairly intimidating. 3) 6a+. Climb to the base of the chimney. Climb this direct or, alternatively, pull out left onto the wall and follow this on good hidden pockets and old bolts before regaining the chimney just before the belay ledge. A spectacular spot. 4) 6b. Pull up into a pod and make a hard move to exit. Traverse right to a stance beneath a diagonal crack system. 5) 6b+. Jam and bridge the crack system. A lovely pitch with good gear. 6) 6a. Climb the wall, weaving around on the best line, first left and then back right. 7) 3+. Easier climbing leads to the summit.
Please adjust this to 6b+ as is indicated for pitch 5. Pitch 4 is so polished there is no way it is less than 6b+ - its a full on british 6a move to exit the pod.
I would give the chimney 5c (it's 5a tech UK), exiting the pod is easily aidable but I'd say hard F6b+ if done free, and the crack above F6b. We did this in April 2008 and it's harder than Easy Gymnopedie, and has more of an "alpine" feel to it...knackered in the evening.
The updated (compared to Pietra di Luna) grades are shown on the topocard on Sardiniaclimb