Yosemite Wall

2 Stars
 E2 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Queersville < The Nose  |  Leaning Buttress Gully > Hangover >>

Climb into a small recess then make difficult moves to the ledge. The thin crack on the left is well battered but a discreet wire to the right protects moves on slopers to easy ground - varied.
FA. Alan Clarke 1965


Definitely easier gaining the ledge on the left. A decent looking small wire can be fiddled in below foot level on the right side of the ledge. This, combined with a bomber cam lower on the route, should prevent a deck from the steep slab.
gav p - 14/Sep/05

Easy sloper pulling for the bold. Terrifying for the limestone climber, I'd imagine.
Robo - 13/Oct/05

The poor runners in the thin crack are fairly useless. The wire below the ledge is a long way below when you are on the upper slab.

Mark - 19/Feb/06

There is good gear on the right side of the slab before you make any hard moves (small friend - Z3) making the route much less bold. The El Cap Finish over the top roof is worth doing.
Nige M - 05/Apr/06

Quite easy for E2 but probably about right I suppose with the mid-heigth crack getting a bit worn.
Joe - 14/Apr/07

Good route, can be adequately protected. The top slab is best done the easy way :-)
lowersharpnose - 21/Sep/08

Great fun, soft at the grade but light on gear, so low E2 is probably fair. Some really nice classic grit sloper moves here.
Chris Parson - 09/Aug/10

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 84
    hard E3 0 of 28
    E3 0 of 28
    easy E3 0 of 28
    hard E2 1 of 28
    E2 14 of 28
    easy E2 12 of 28
    hard E1 1 of 28
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    hard 5c 0 of 28
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    hard 5b 10 of 28
    5b 16 of 28
    easy 5b 2 of 28
    hard 5a 0 of 28
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    3 Stars 1 of 28
    2 Stars 15 of 28
    1 Star 11 of 28
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