Yosemite Wall

2 Stars
 E2 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Queersville < The Nose  |  Leaning Buttress Gully > Hangover >>

16m. A varied route. Climb into a small recess then make difficult moves (easier on the left) to the ledge above. Poor runners in the thin crack protect moves on sloping holds up the steep slab just to the right.
FA. Alan Clarke 1965


Definitely easier gaining the ledge on the left. A decent looking small wire can be fiddled in below foot level on the right side of the ledge. This, combined with a bomber cam lower on the route, should prevent a deck from the steep slab.
gav p - 14/Sep/05

Easy sloper pulling for the bold. Terrifying for the limestone climber, I'd imagine.
Robo - 13/Oct/05

The poor runners in the thin crack are fairly useless. The wire below the ledge is a long way below when you are on the upper slab.

Mark - 19/Feb/06

There is good gear on the right side of the slab before you make any hard moves (small friend - Z3) making the route much less bold. The El Cap Finish over the top roof is worth doing.
Nige M - 05/Apr/06

Quite easy for E2 but probably about right I suppose with the mid-heigth crack getting a bit worn.
Joe - 14/Apr/07

Good route, can be adequately protected. The top slab is best done the easy way :-)
lowersharpnose - 21/Sep/08

Great fun, soft at the grade but light on gear, so low E2 is probably fair. Some really nice classic grit sloper moves here.
Chris Parson - 09/Aug/10

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 84
    hard E3 0 of 28
    E3 0 of 28
    easy E3 0 of 28
    hard E2 1 of 28
    E2 14 of 28
    easy E2 12 of 28
    hard E1 1 of 28
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    hard 5c 0 of 28
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    hard 5b 10 of 28
    5b 16 of 28
    easy 5b 2 of 28
    hard 5a 0 of 28
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    3 Stars 1 of 28
    2 Stars 15 of 28
    1 Star 11 of 28
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    Bag of ..... 1 of 28

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