Chock Gully Top 50

2 Stars
Strong
 V 5

Adjacent Routes
<< Falcon Crag Gully < Tic Tac Man  |  Dollywagon Great Chimney > Easy Gully >>


135m. It's inclusion in 'Cold Climbs' has attracted a disproportionate amount of attention to this climb. It is rarely in climbable condition and requires a big dump of snow and a period of freeze thaw for it to be stable enough to climb the crux overhang. An excellent route when it is in condition! Traversing in on the big ledge to avoid the first two pitches is cheating. 1) 20m. Climb the first chock stone on the left. 2) 20m The second bulge to easy ground below the main pitch. 3) 25m. Climb steepening snow until you are under the chock stone (good nuts on the left). Make difficult moves out left and surmount the chock using unconsolidated snow and poor hooks. 4) 50m. Climb beneath the huge jammed boulder to gain a standing position on top of it. Some tricky moves up the back of the gully lead to easier ground and the top.

USER COMMENTS

Have only done the route once, but would suggest that a better description for the start of pitch 3 would be 'Climb an ice pitch to reach the chockstone...'

The crux is quite well protected, despite what you might assume from the grade of V 5.
Steve Robinson - 21/Mar/06

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 9
    hard VI 0 of 3
    VI 0 of 3
    easy VI 1 of 3
    hard V 0 of 3
    V 1 of 3
    easy V 1 of 3
    hard IV 0 of 3
    IV 0 of 3
    easy IV 0 of 3
    hard ?? 1 of 2
    ?? 0 of 2
    easy ?? 1 of 2
    3 Stars 1 of 4
    2 Stars 3 of 4
    1 Star 0 of 4
    0 Stars 0 of 4
    Bag of ..... 0 of 4

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.