Flying Buttress Top 50

3 Stars
 HVD 4a

Adjacent Routes
<< Wedge Rib < Flying Buttress Gully  |  Goodbye Toulouse > Flying Buttress Direct >>


24m. A vaunted classic. Wander up the unprotected ‘question-mark' slab to its top left-hand corner. The undercut groove here is tricky to enter (good gear) and leads to an exposed slab. Head right to a ledge and a finish on jugs. Walk off right or finish up the short wall behind to reach the cliff top. Photo page 3.
FA. Fergus Graham 1922

USER COMMENTS

A bit of a soft touch HVD? only one hard move and that's stupidly well protected and not really that hard.
victim of mathematics - 09/Apr/04

I agree, the crux is not hard at all, hold are very good and there is protection all the way. Another overgraded rockfax route - BMC give it VDiff. Very good route tho, worthy of the 3*
David Bowden - 26/Apr/04

Excellent route to climb. I found the crux quite easy too and well protected. I think it is more like a VDiff have climbed harder VDiffs. Lovely route with fun juggy finish except when some one is sat belaying from it :o(
Andrew M - 29/Apr/04

Did a good selection of VDiffs at the weekend for my first leads, and then tried Flying Buttress. Found it gave me just the right amount of extra buzz over the VDiffs. Easy HVD, but not VD. Not sure the slab is unprotected - it looked like a cam would go in a couple of pockets. Didn't try though - the slab is a doddle, doesn't matter at all that it's unprotected.
Nutkey - 31/May/04

Slab is unprotected, and the crux, altho easy, is harder than anything on most vdiffs, so Id say HVD is ok - the first time i ever went climbing i was seconding this and stood on the ledge under the crux getting pumped for 20 minutes, then got lowered off. Went back today to exorcise the demons and did the whole route in 5 minutes. Amazing what a bit of practice can do...
Si - 22/Jul/04

great route, i was about 10 wen i did this a few yrs back and coming up the overhang wen ur 10 is brilliant, hope to do flying butress direct this yr!
Sam and will - 14/Mar/05

Polished to buggary.
Iggy_B - 16/May/05

Excellent route. HVD for my money, the slab is not unprotected as you can put friends and even a nut in if you look hard enough. Move up off the slab is interesting and harder than VDiff IMHO. Very worthwhile.
ENTJ - 06/Jun/05

I tried this route as my first HVD lead about 12 months ago.Low end of the grade. Well worth the 3 stars. i managed to get 3 bits of gear in the slab tho
Gordon - 15/Jan/06

bloody polised as f**k but definately 3 stars first ever lead with a strange top out great fun
oli - 22/Jun/06

Beautiful - would happily climb this all day!
SJW - 09/Apr/10

Started climbing again last september after many years and set Flying Buttress as a target. Just lead it and was slightly disappointed. The route is excellent, but I had waited too long. Do it as an early lead it needs the fear factor to bring it alive.
jason turner - 15/Aug/10

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 199
    hard0 of 95
    0 of 95
    easy5 of 95
    hard HVD 10 of 95
    HVD 37 of 95
    easy HVD 11 of 95
    hard VD 32 of 95
    VD 0 of 95
    easy VD 0 of 95
    hard 4b 0 of 13
    4b 0 of 13
    easy 4b 0 of 13
    hard 4a 1 of 13
    4a 7 of 13
    easy 4a 3 of 13
    hard 3c 2 of 13
    3c 0 of 13
    easy 3c 0 of 13
    3 Stars 70 of 91
    2 Stars 14 of 91
    1 Star 7 of 91
    0 Stars 0 of 91
    Bag of ..... 0 of 91

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