Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 27
16m. A mildy wild exciting route across the left-hand side of the roof. Climb the slab to the curving flake in the overhang then from using fat jams (large Friend protection) trend to the right to finish just right of the nose on good holds.
Searched in vain for the fist jams - quite disappointed not find them in a strange way.
I found this considerably harder than Flying Buttress Direct, I get the feeling that this is the real 5b.
Much harder then FBD maybe because im short? Nice tho...
Didn't find this too much more difficult than FDB, didn't use jams, and thought it was as good as FBD... Great roof route with good moves, and a bit wild. Would love to try Flying Butt now, just for the finale!
Have soloed FBD but no way would solo this...
For a short arse (5'4"), this is easier than FBD and definitely only E1. The initial reach on FBD is much longer - I have to walk my fingers round (HVS my arse). This really only has 1 hard move - from the flat hold (big enough to match) to the next break. Would make an impressive campus. Just Flying Butt now...