Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 105
14m. A good route with a stiff crux and delicate finale. Climb the edge of the slab to the right end of the overhangs and pull through these at a short vertical crack (good wires). Step left into an open groove and bridge up this to a rounded exit. More like HVS for those who donít mind exposed padding.
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A very nice climb- not that bold really- with help of a size 2 friend. Initial slab is tricky, The crux is thrilling and the upper bulges are a delight.
definitely NOT E1 and definitely not 5b. This really is very easy and more like HVS (or even VS when men were men)
Rubbish - It's harder than Flying Buttress Direct and a lot more dangerous. If it was supposed to be 'VS when men were men' why was it unrepeated for 20 years
is it harder than fying buttress? i might try flying buttress then. rekon the pull over the overhang is definately 5b & took me a while to work out. once you're over the overhang though i thought it was too easy to warrant "a bold finale" .
One hard move getting estabished on the upper wall.
It is an admittedly fun lower slab with only one real move to gain the stance at the bottom of the scoop, but I was the most gripped I've been in recent times, even with 4c padding on the upper section.
A nice E1 5b the gear is bomber and the moves are enjoyable.
First E1 :) I found the crux pretty hard, solid 5b but ok after I'd stood around working it out and getting rid of in-the-way cams :) Top-out was fine in comparison, but then I am good at "exposed padding", so maybe I only get HVS :)
Trying to get back to E1 so i spent plenty of time falling off the crux, i was too busy trying to lunge up and right for the good hold i didn't think about going left then right it's much easier. I had a little slip on the top part and i think a piece of poo came out :-0
The hardest move was getting onto the ledge after the overhang, from then on the padding up the wall was quite easy.
I didn't put in enough gear before going for the crux. Thus the upper section was bold.