Kirkus's Corner

2 Stars
Strong
Rounded
Fluttery
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Flying Buttress Direct < Flying Butt  |  Spasticus Artisticus > Jitterbug Buttress >>


14m. A good route with a stiff crux and delicate finale. Climb the edge of the slab to the right end of the overhangs and pull through these at a short vertical crack (good wires). Step left into an open groove and bridge up this to a rounded exit. More like HVS for those who donít mind exposed padding.
FA. Colin Kirkus 1934

USER COMMENTS

A very nice climb- not that bold really- with help of a size 2 friend. Initial slab is tricky, The crux is thrilling and the upper bulges are a delight.
Neil Morbey - 09/Nov/03

definitely NOT E1 and definitely not 5b. This really is very easy and more like HVS (or even VS when men were men)
pascal brown - 16/May/04

Rubbish - It's harder than Flying Buttress Direct and a lot more dangerous. If it was supposed to be 'VS when men were men' why was it unrepeated for 20 years
db - 31/May/04

is it harder than fying buttress? i might try flying buttress then. rekon the pull over the overhang is definately 5b & took me a while to work out. once you're over the overhang though i thought it was too easy to warrant "a bold finale" .
leon skeldon - 31/May/04

One hard move getting estabished on the upper wall.
Jus - 16/Jun/04

It is an admittedly fun lower slab with only one real move to gain the stance at the bottom of the scoop, but I was the most gripped I've been in recent times, even with 4c padding on the upper section.

A great thriller, and a good climb. (Oh, and doing a hanging belay at the top's quite fun too!)
Pythonist - 06/Sep/04

A nice E1 5b the gear is bomber and the moves are enjoyable.
Iggy_B - 22/Feb/05

First E1 :) I found the crux pretty hard, solid 5b but ok after I'd stood around working it out and getting rid of in-the-way cams :) Top-out was fine in comparison, but then I am good at "exposed padding", so maybe I only get HVS :)
Si dH - 04/Aug/05

Trying to get back to E1 so i spent plenty of time falling off the crux, i was too busy trying to lunge up and right for the good hold i didn't think about going left then right it's much easier. I had a little slip on the top part and i think a piece of poo came out :-0
Adam Moroz - 24/May/07

The hardest move was getting onto the ledge after the overhang, from then on the padding up the wall was quite easy.
Paul Tomo - 10/Jun/07

I didn't put in enough gear before going for the crux. Thus the upper section was bold.
nigel pearson - 12/May/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 105
    hard E2 0 of 37
    E2 0 of 37
    easy E2 0 of 37
    hard E1 1 of 37
    E1 20 of 37
    easy E1 12 of 37
    hard HVS 4 of 37
    HVS 0 of 37
    easy HVS 0 of 37
    hard 5c 0 of 36
    5c 0 of 36
    easy 5c 0 of 36
    hard 5b 1 of 36
    5b 27 of 36
    easy 5b 7 of 36
    hard 5a 1 of 36
    5a 0 of 36
    easy 5a 0 of 36
    3 Stars 6 of 32
    2 Stars 19 of 32
    1 Star 7 of 32
    0 Stars 0 of 32
    Bag of ..... 0 of 32

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