The Kirkus Original

1 Stars
 VS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Spasticus Artisticus < Jitterbug Buttress  |  Jitter Face > Townsend's Variation >>

Start from a block to the right of the base of the gully. Go up the face to harder moves at half-height (holds to the right) which lead to a scary mantelshelf and then easier ground. Despite what you might expect from the grade, it is unprotected.
FA. Colin Kirkus 1930s


I guess it depends on the line taken, but direct to the ledge is VS 5b
Chris Moor - 17/Dec/02

It definitely isn't 5b but it does feel very commiting. I got my hands on the ledge looked down and thought "what the **** am I doing here!?!
Fortunatley it's easy from there.
Dave F - 31/Mar/03

I was confused about the line of this route, and started about one to two metres right of the gully, but couldn't do the moves on the small holds (also unprotected with drop beneath). However I instead moved up and right closer to the gully and the route quickly petered out into a v diff standard!? Yours, confused.
Nick W - 23/Aug/04

Harder than Townsend's Variation, top end 5a with no gear, although not far off the ground.
Iain Thow - 17/Mar/07

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 16
    hard HVS 0 of 8
    HVS 0 of 8
    easy HVS 1 of 8
    hard VS 4 of 8
    VS 3 of 8
    easy VS 0 of 8
    hard HS 0 of 8
    HS 0 of 8
    easy HS 0 of 8
    hard 5b 0 of 1
    5b 0 of 1
    easy 5b 0 of 1
    hard 5a 0 of 1
    5a 0 of 1
    easy 5a 1 of 1
    hard 4c 0 of 1
    4c 0 of 1
    easy 4c 0 of 1
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