Tippler Direct Top 50

3 Stars
Reachy
 E3 6a

Adjacent Routes
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16m. A fine piece of roof climbing. Climb through the stacked overhangs to a hanging position where a massive lock-off move, or a short leap, is needed to reach the break under the final roof. Finish up the crux of the normal route.
FA. Jim Reading 1976

USER COMMENTS

Not technical-just steep and pumpy .The big lock off isn't too bad if you just grit your teeth and go,the hold your'e going for is good.The hard bit for me was the crux of the normal route(as usual!)
big al - 22/Sep/02

A 'safe' fall off the crux - as my photo demonstrates...
Nick Smith - 02/Jul/03

I liked the fall so much I did it 3X! The target hold is actually good -- once you reach it. A belief move.
stow - 26/Sep/03

It felt bloody desperate in the midle of summer, in the blazing sun. The hold you go for is a looong way if your short.
andy farnell - 17/Mar/05

Anyone who does this is a THUG
ian Jones - 01/Aug/05

Nonsense to the idea that this is thuggery. Great moves under the roof, with good holds and adequate feet. The move get around the first roof includes a great heel-hook and is well protected. The next reach, however, beat me senseless. I think jumping is the only answer, and I don't have a small reach!
Pythonist - 22/Feb/07

I think the thuggery comes in at the point you mention... right foot on broken hold out right, lock off with left arm on rounded hold, then rock up slightly and reach.
John Gillott - 24/Feb/07

Finally got this yesterday - Still don't think it's thuggery, but it is a real reach... I think the problem is more conviction in standing on the right foot. Anyway, very happy now, and I believe grades and stars all the way.
Pythonist - 26/Aug/07

don't understand why this is a "Thug" climb, or why people seem to find the crux move so difficult. I did it on sight in the rain, with a unnecessarily large rack. Did the crux move static on a poor foothold, fifteen at the time and short for my age (5.6) so any height complaints seem invalid. nonetheless a good climb although I thought 5c more appropriate. easier than Quietus.
billy r - 28/May/13

crux move can be done statically (even by the short, I was 5.5 at the time), the main difficulty was just trusting the foot. I thought 5c more appropriate as it was easier than Quietus in my opinion.
billy r - 28/May/13

On-sighted this and repeated several times now. Great route. Not thuggery as I'm weak and tend to count myself as a technical climber not a thuggy one. Mostly about full commitment through the crux. 6a seems fair compared to other routes at the same grade. @bily r - maybe you are just doing quietus with a more difficult than necessary sequence, there are several approaches depending whether you go up with your left or right hand first. This is a more straight forward route for sure but physically 6a fair. Maybe you could argue it's E2 as so well protected?? But for me E3 is about right for the fact it's quite sustained.
Matt Pigden - 03/Aug/14

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 75
    hard E4 0 of 26
    E4 0 of 26
    easy E4 2 of 26
    hard E3 5 of 26
    E3 16 of 26
    easy E3 3 of 26
    hard E2 0 of 26
    E2 0 of 26
    easy E2 0 of 26
    hard 6b 0 of 26
    6b 0 of 26
    easy 6b 4 of 26
    hard 6a 17 of 26
    6a 4 of 26
    easy 6a 1 of 26
    hard 5c 0 of 26
    5c 0 of 26
    easy 5c 0 of 26
    3 Stars 20 of 23
    2 Stars 3 of 23
    1 Star 0 of 23
    0 Stars 0 of 23
    Bag of ..... 0 of 23

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