Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 120
A devious classic and solid at the grade! Climb the right arete, past a tricky overlap, to the big roof. Traverse left then grope up and left for good jams. Swiftly make the crux moves to get established on the final wall then finish easily.
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tasty slab, small rock over,long run out traverse with big ping potential,bomer jams then pull round the roof on a tiny slopper and scuttle to the top. classic grit stone.
the runout traverse gave rise to a rather large lob, resulting in my swinging into a boulder, and now needing my foot screwed back together. the gear at the start of the traverse held though! none-the-less, a great route that i will attempt again once i'm out of plaster, though i doubt immediately!
WARNING - GEAR BETA FOLLOWS:
Yesterday i notived the thread was back in. Now if you're going to place a thread (which is unnecessary and unsightly) at least leave tails on the knot longer then a centimetre! I would have removed it myself but i had no rope.
Did it last night (09/06/04). No thread.
Is the cam protection that good? I've witnessed someone fall off at the end of the traverse, rip out several cams & do a massive pendulum. His feet were almost scraping the ground!
The gear on the traverse didn't look all that good to me, I tried to fiddle in a small cam but gave up. I guess you might be able to get one in the best hold on the traverse, but I wanted to use that for my hand!
What are you folks doing using Cams on this? I got a reasonable nut in on the traverse - yes, it fell out after rocking up on to the upper slab, but I had a superb nut in before doing the move, so the route is well protected throughout. Especially if you place the piece on the traverse, then retreat to the right for a rest before committing to the finish. Fantastic route, with almost every move earning its place on this 3* E1.
I only got a piece in the middle of the traverse and just went for the crux without thinking about the lob...it worked. :)
Did it in hail, with slight surprise at findong no thread at roof. Dropped a nut in and stepped up onto the slab. I found the shuffle along below the slab harder than than the rockover, that just seemed to flow...
A friend in the lower wall, a nut before you traverse left and a medium cam in the roof below the rockover. Sorted. Best E1 I've done.
The hands and feet on the traverse are decent enough to not worry too much about the gear. The rockover gave me pause though when I had to reverse, chuck another piece in and then go for gold. The top slab is run out but not too hard and ultimately very safe - there's nothing to hit if you come off.
Small but packs a punch. Last gear one third across traverse then I didn't stop until I got disco leg on the headwall which only responded to a quick slap and a good talking to. Always found the holds good enough to keep going. Needs a finale, two stars.
There is plentiful solid gear at both ends of the traverse, why not use it? A justifiably good, safe and pumpy Stanage route.
Reminded me of Guillotine in that the traverse is potentially quite dangerous if you run out of steam before getting some gear in at the other end!! Great climbing though
Can you remove the "gear spoiler" as this is in no way a dangerous route. The gear is fine and no need to get injured if your ability to place gear is up to scratch. BTW I don't even agree with your choice of gear as I use a different combination personally. It's a bit pumpy so maybe people are not taking enough time to place the gear well but I've climbed this route many times and the direct version too and never felt this was anything but a very safe but sustained E1.