Black Hawk Bastion

2 Stars
 E3 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Master of Disguise < Chameleon  |  Eliminator > Castle Crack >>

The capped groove is steady up to the big overhang where committing moves lead out left to a wild finish up the hanging left arete of the final groove. Low in the grade, but not that low!
FA. Dick Brown (1 peg for aid) 1952. FFA. John Allen 1975


This is E3 6a in the Stanage guide, and well up in the graded list. Its a short but viscious crux and the gear is hard to arrange for the crux moves to stop you splatting into the corner..
Al Evans - 22/Sep/03

Got pumped trying to get gear in at the crux. There is gear though (I won't say what it is - you can find out for yourself), you just can't get any in before getting committed. I splatted into corner spectacularly but without injury. Hard work at E2 5c!
Eric - 24/Jun/04

A bit of old fashioned udging gets you around the corner. Wicked route, get on it.
Jus - 05/Jun/06

Yes, it is hard at the crux. However, careful gear on both ropes will keep you pretty safe in the event of a flyer. Great route!
Tom Chamberlain - 22/Mar/10

I on-sighted this but knackered my medial meniscus in the process!!! Found the crux desperate but I'm 6'2" and was very bunched up and using mammoth amounts of force through my left knee to stay on going out with my left hand for the arete (felt my meniscus tear at that exact moment). Had put this one off for a while as looks intimidating. Definitely full E3 tick for me and was horrified to see it as E2 is some guides - no way.
Matt Pigden - 03/Aug/14

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 73
    hard E4 0 of 7
    E4 0 of 7
    easy E4 0 of 7
    hard E3 0 of 7
    E3 4 of 7
    easy E3 1 of 7
    hard E2 2 of 7
    E2 0 of 7
    easy E2 0 of 7
    hard 6a 0 of 35
    6a 0 of 35
    easy 6a 3 of 35
    hard 5c 22 of 35
    5c 9 of 35
    easy 5c 0 of 35
    hard 5b 1 of 35
    5b 0 of 35
    easy 5b 0 of 35
    3 Stars 3 of 31
    2 Stars 27 of 31
    1 Star 1 of 31
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