Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 73
16m. The roofed groove is steady up to the big square overhang where committing moves lead left to a wild finish up the hanging left arete of the final groove. Low in the grade, but hard enough!
This is E3 6a in the Stanage guide, and well up in the graded list. Its a short but viscious crux and the gear is hard to arrange for the crux moves to stop you splatting into the corner..
Got pumped trying to get gear in at the crux. There is gear though (I won't say what it is - you can find out for yourself), you just can't get any in before getting committed. I splatted into corner spectacularly but without injury. Hard work at E2 5c!
A bit of old fashioned udging gets you around the corner. Wicked route, get on it.
Yes, it is hard at the crux. However, careful gear on both ropes will keep you pretty safe in the event of a flyer. Great route!
I on-sighted this but knackered my medial meniscus in the process!!! Found the crux desperate but I'm 6'2" and was very bunched up and using mammoth amounts of force through my left knee to stay on going out with my left hand for the arete (felt my meniscus tear at that exact moment). Had put this one off for a while as looks intimidating. Definitely full E3 tick for me and was horrified to see it as E2 is some guides - no way.