Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 73
16m. The roofed groove is steady up to the big square overhang where committing moves lead left to a wild finish up the hanging left arete of the final groove. Low in the grade, but hard enough!
This is E3 6a in the Stanage guide, and well up in the graded list. Its a short but viscious crux and the gear is hard to arrange for the crux moves to stop you splatting into the corner..
Got pumped trying to get gear in at the crux. There is gear though (I won't say what it is - you can find out for yourself), you just can't get any in before getting committed. I splatted into corner spectacularly but without injury. Hard work at E2 5c!
A bit of old fashioned udging gets you around the corner. Wicked route, get on it.
Yes, it is hard at the crux. However, careful gear on both ropes will keep you pretty safe in the event of a flyer. Great route!