Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 192
14m. An elegant climb up the arete and wall left of the big corner. The lower arete is technical as far as the short vertical crack. More strenuous climbing leads up the short wall, on spaced holds, to the final shallow groove. Photo page 173.
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Try to place the gear in the vertical crack quickly or you may find you haven't the strength to do the crux!
Who voted E1?
I found this hard. Maybe it's because I am short? The initial "crux" moves were really nice and not too hard. However I really struggled with the long reaches higher up. Excellent route though but very pumpy.
Excellent route, found it very hard and very pumpy, suprised there was no big arms symbol in the guide.
i was too impatient at placing gear in the vertical crack (i remembered chris's advice) & when i fell from the crux my poorly placed cam popped. the gear in the break caught me a few feet from the ground. next time i'll make sure the gear in the vertical crack is bomber & keep my weight low before comming to that sloppy ledge!!! awersome route though (the bit i managed)
Took a nice fall on to a cam in the break which kept me about 5" off the deck after rope stretch due to faffing around with a big nut in the vertical crack and cranking my left hand on that slopey ledge for too long!
Lovely! One of the best routes of this grade in the area...
Have always avoided routes with reachy symbol, but glad I didn't avoid this one - very good, but why does it get a reachy symbol - ok for me at 5 foot 2
Realy good route GEAR BETA, a number 10 DMM Wallnut slips perfectly into the vertical crack and it holds.Got angry with myself as i reached up and right to nothing instead of up and left to the ledge. So got pumped and fell. 30 second rest then nailed it.
excellent route, reachy but not to bad, thought it was an easy 5b but solid HVS. Gear is excellent so u can afford to give it some.
I found the initial moves up the arete a little tricky & balancy - maybe that says something about me not being good at commitment. It is reachy, but its one of those routes short people (I'm 5'4" - respect to Karen) with a bit of power will find ok - because the holds are so good when you get them, you can use them low down to compensate. Finished right up the 5a crack (nice) as recommended in the, er, 'other' guide.
echo robert bridges comments above. Lovely route