Castle Crack

2 Stars
 HS 4b

Adjacent Routes
<< Black Hawk Bastion < Eliminator  |  Black Hawk > Prudence >>


18m. The big slippery right-angled corner is climbed to ledges by laybacking or awkward jamming. Finish direct easily, or up the steep arete above (VS 4c), or out to the right.
FA. Henry Bishop and friends, early 1910s

USER COMMENTS

First route (and lead) @ Stanage. Actually thought I was climbing Hollybush Crack and couldn't understand why it was so hard. Very shiny.
JohnB - 02/Jul/02

Very nice climbing. An optional finish up the front face using the left arete and straight over the lip (mantle shelf) makes it a superb route.
Darren Burrows - 13/Jun/03

Very Polished.
Dave Hewitt - 21/Mar/04

quite a nice climb, I'd say not too hard in the grade as long as your foot doesn't slip off the shiny hold, and your at least average height. This one could be pretty hard for the small. My foot stuck and I used it from a variety of angles so I found the climb pretty easy.
Woker - 24/Aug/04

Nice route. Generally not too high in the grade, apart from the crux, which is hard 4b in my opinion. Still it is just one move. The rest of the route is pretty straightforward. Not sure which hold was the polished foothold referred to in these comments, as there are quite a lot of them on the route.......
James McN - 26/Sep/04

Didnt think there was one particular crux to be honest, found it pretty strenuous as HSs go but then I ended up smearing off the side-wall rather tha nuse the polished holds, whihc probably didnt help in that repsect. I dont thin kthis route is worth any stars at all to be honest, altho it is a nice line.
Si dH - 11/Apr/05

This is a good climb with nice moves. There are only really 3 moves on this and all very protectable. A 9 hex comes in handy at half way - add a couple of nuts and your laughing. After the crack is very disappointing hence only 2 stars.
Andy M - 30/Aug/05

Very protectable HS (provided you remember to take your 9 hex up, which I didn't, despite having done the route before!). Hard 4b for me, but I'm only 5'6". Finished up the last part of Black Hawk instead of the direct finish, which is basically Mod.
Ben Blaukopf - 22/Apr/07

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 103
    hard VS 0 of 36
    VS 0 of 36
    easy VS 1 of 36
    hard HS 3 of 36
    HS 29 of 36
    easy HS 2 of 36
    hard1 of 36
    0 of 36
    easy0 of 36
    hard 4c 0 of 35
    4c 0 of 35
    easy 4c 2 of 35
    hard 4b 8 of 35
    4b 20 of 35
    easy 4b 3 of 35
    hard 4a 2 of 35
    4a 0 of 35
    easy 4a 0 of 35
    3 Stars 1 of 32
    2 Stars 22 of 32
    1 Star 8 of 32
    0 Stars 1 of 32
    Bag of ..... 0 of 32

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