Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 206
The crack in the right side of the wall is the line. It is juggy and well protected. A few slings for threads might be found useful.
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It is steep, polished and well protected using cams and wires.
Steep, juggy (and ledgy) and amazingly well protected using absolutely anything! Only a couple of cruxy moves make it Severe. Enjoyable for anyone
in reply to Gav P it is vertical, juggy, with rest ledges and the crux sequence can be protectwed with 2 bomber threads. Nice rout done it 5? times :o)
Forget cams, take hexes, slings and big wires! Amazing pro!
this is my favorite route in stanage edge. I think you guys have great crack climbs and this is a great introduction! Pete
WONDERFUL route!! Nice and high!! Kind of hurt my hads jamming in that there crack though!!
Definately a great route. Take a look down from the top and the ledges look like very steep steps. All big gear is good, but there's a great gap 3/4 up for a long sling (not a short one like me!) giving you ultimate protection. It's another route everyone should try.
Good route,feels suprisingly exposed and steep.A good tick for a VDiff/Severe leader.
Got to be one of the best Severes on the Edge.
mmm... seem to be in the minority here, though certainly worthy of one star, I can't honestly give it more than that
Absolutely fabulous climb, I have yet to tire of doing it, the gear is good by the hard moves, just don't be foolish like some people and take no slings, you really do use them!
When I tell people I like climbing, this is one of the routes that flashes through my mind. Just long enough to satisfy, lots of different pro with the important move (bomber gear, take a couple of slings but not vital) high enough to make you feel dead clever. Hoorah
Climbed as a second and was really looking forward to just relaxing and enjoying the moves. It did not disappoint, one of those routes with everything in place. Loads of protection, great moves and just the right amount of head scratching. One for a lazy afternoon.