Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 39
Start left of the chimney and follow scratched footholds right to a crack and climb this to bulges. Step right and climb the main fissure to the capping overhang and escape out to the left.
Stopper move to leave the large ledge at 2/3 height.
Found it quite hard for the grade. I think I might have traversed into the chimney a bit too high though. Slightly comitting move to get of large ledge is poorly protected without cams (for a Diff!).
Agree with all the above - my fiancee backed off 2/3 height (first diff, in pouring rain!), and I found the climb, err, interesting. Found the traverse left exposed, and yes, unprotected without cams. VD, at least in the rain!
Would definitely feel a bit run out if you didn't have cams to protect the top corner/crack. It's also a (pleasantly) delicate if you bridge rather than squirming up the crack - can't really complain about that when there was a "traditional" option though :)
A move without footholds on a diff!?
Its a chimney its got arse holds :o)
There are holds, they're just a bit small and polished. Anyway you can use the big ledge on the right wall to help get round that bit
It's an easy mantleshelf type manouevre. I Soloed this happily a few times when I was only leading VDiff, so it can't be that hard!
My little girl's (11 yo,4 ft 5") first proper second today and she got up it but with a real struggle; being short and unable to reach the footholds above half height she simply had to "squidge" with a great deal of harumphing. I'm sure that old traditionalists would say she has perfect old fashioned chimneying technique !!Nice climb, worth the stars I think but don't expect a soft touch for beginners IMHO.