Gargoyle Variant

2 Stars
 HS 4b

Adjacent Routes
<< Ugly Mugs < Moriaty  |  Gargoyle Buttress > Dry Rot >>

Start under the hanging left arete of the buttress and climb the awkward wide crack to the overhang. Traverse right to below the large perched block. Gain this carefully and finish up the arete directly above on good holds.


The rib to the right of the crack is a better start - balancy and no gear, rather than an awkward thrutch.
SteveC - 17/Jul/03

A committing little number for the grade, make no mistake. Surmounting the overhang is not difficult, but is a pretty bold move. Only managed to place two pieces of gear that weren't cams. Top out was also very slimy in the wet, and felt very precarious.
James McN - 18/Oct/04

Hmm commiting at the grade but not hard. You head up a wide awkard crack which is fun if you like that sort of thing. Leaving some average gear behind a jammed feasibly loose block (unless you have huge cams), you then traverse out on to the nose, on small holds to start with. Once the jugs emerge it's all much more straight forward. The loose block looks like it will be there for some time, more detached than loose, but still scary pulling up on to.
Woker - 19/Oct/04

Soloed, but I agree with Steve - start on the arete rather than in the crack. Good, obvious crux getting around the corner, and big cams will help. Overall a worthwhile route.
Pythonist - 20/Sep/06

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