Gargoyle Buttress

2 Stars
 VS 4b

Adjacent Routes
<< Moriaty < Gargoyle Variant  |  Dry Rot > Physiology >>


14m. Mild and excellent. Start at the right toe of the buttress and after a couple of moves, follow a horizontal break out to the left. Pull up on the suspect perched boulder with care then finish up the centre of the wall above trending slightly rightwards.
FA. Ron Townsend 1949

USER COMMENTS

A nice warmup before you do flying butress direct!!!
neil - 18/Jan/02

The top wall provides a much better finish, avoiding the innapropriately easy climbing up the 'normal' finish just left. Even with the harder finish it is still probably overgraded at VS.
Steve C - 17/May/02

Maybe I wasn't going well, but I didn't find this as easy as I was expecting. Average VS. How solid is that perched boulder anyway? It seems to be held on by mud!
Dave F - 23/Jul/03

Dont try and go up too early! Worth three stars on any other crag.
Al - 15/Sep/03

Felt like VS to me, not that well protected on the 'pull up', assuming you resist the temptation to put gear behind the boulder :)
Simon Caldwell - 07/Jun/04

Nice route but seemed a bit easy for VS.
Jonathan Tompkins - 09/Jun/04

More like HS than VS but excellent, lovely moves
moomin lord - 20/Sep/04

Oh it was VS alright - but then I supose the melting ice could have been a factor.
RobRock - 07/Mar/05

Definitely VS the way I did it, although looking at one of the photos perhaps I went too high?
Moves to the block felt 5a-ish with big swing potential, although it was very cold which didnt help. Unfortunately the nice-looking bit after the traverse is very easy which lets the route down a bit.
Si - 12/Mar/05

Fairly straight forward climbing as long as you don't try to leave the traverse too early.
lps - 28/Jul/05

striaght forward for VS and I thought well enough protected, as long as you stop to place gear during the traverse. I actually found the HS variant to be less well protected and more technical! Scary pulling up on the block as it looks big and heavy but not so big and heavy you can totally trust it!
CurlyStevo - 18/Apr/06

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 177
    hard HVS 0 of 61
    HVS 0 of 61
    easy HVS 1 of 61
    hard VS 0 of 61
    VS 25 of 61
    easy VS 25 of 61
    hard HS 10 of 61
    HS 0 of 61
    easy HS 0 of 61
    hard 4c 0 of 59
    4c 0 of 59
    easy 4c 4 of 59
    hard 4b 14 of 59
    4b 32 of 59
    easy 4b 9 of 59
    hard 4a 0 of 59
    4a 0 of 59
    easy 4a 0 of 59
    3 Stars 9 of 57
    2 Stars 39 of 57
    1 Star 9 of 57
    0 Stars 0 of 57
    Bag of ..... 0 of 57

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