Manchester Buttress

3 Stars
 HS 4b

Adjacent Routes
<< Beggar's Crack < Moss Side  |  Manchester United > Two Tier Climb >>


16m. Start up the crack in the arete then head left to outflank the first overhang. Move up to a deep break then make an awkward traverse back to the right (fist jams) to access the ledge round the corner. Finish direct. Photo page 181.
FA. Maurice Linnell early 1930s

USER COMMENTS

Budding leaders will probably find this hard for the grade.
Stefan Kruger - 05/Apr/02

I loved this...quite committing for the grade but all the holds appear when you need them.
Martin - 16/Mar/03

Great route - 3Stars. Committing? Bold? Hard?. I think this is a perfect HS 4b...bold when easy, protectable when hard, technical when in balance.

I think it is OK for anyone leading HVD/S (or above)..
Robert A King - 05/Aug/03

Unless you've got enormous fists the traverse back right onto the front face is not easy,
Beta alert!
there is a good crimp deep in the break otherwise try hugging the blunt arete.
Jon Greengrass - 08/Oct/03

this has got to be one of the best grit routes i've done. brilliant moves on positive holds
leon skeldon - 13/Apr/04

A bit of a frightener on the traverse back right to the arete if you dont like jamming.Brilliant varied route spoilt a bit by the far too easy finish.
mart - 28/Apr/04

The direct variant Manchester United HVS 5b is also well worth doing - much easier for the tall :)
Simon Caldwell - 07/Jun/04

Very nice route. I didn't use a jam on any of it and didn't think the traverse was too bad.
Jonathan Tompkins - 09/Jun/04

excelent route, traverse back is definately best done on fist jams, a doddle that way. Watched people trying to do it without and none made it look easy.
Woker - 16/Jun/04

Great route altho harder than all the other classic HSs at Stanage Pop eg. april + christmas cracks or RHRHBD IMHO - not that Im saying it should be upgraded, its about right.
The traverse back across was ok using a crimp deep in the break, as for fist-jams.... Id need a break at least 1.5 times that size to jam my fist in it, nearer to a hand-jam!
Si - 22/Jul/04

Thought it was pretty easy compared to some other HS's I've done before. The traverse right was great fun especially when you find the crimp near the back of the break! :) HS 4b is about right
Richard Hession - 10/Feb/05

I actually found the traverse fairly easy. The start was quite tough although I did miss a rather obvious layback option.

A fantastic route and pretty solid at HS I reckon.
victim of mathematics - 19/May/05

Don't hang around too long trying to place gear, just keep on the move.
lps - 28/Jul/05

This is a superb HS 4b. First time I led it was on a single rope meaning I had tremendous rope drag - second time was a pleasure.
Andy M - 30/Aug/05

Amazing route! Totally deserving of it's 3 stars and not a bit of polish anywhere (although maybe I've just jinxed it by saying that).

Found the horizontal break a bit small for fists and large for a hand jam, which led to an interesting belly flop onto the ledge. The finish isn't a walk in the park either when it's blowing a gale, which adds to the excitement!
Sarah Clough - 03/Apr/06

this is a brilliant route. well worth it's stars.
peter myers - 17/Jun/06

Much more daunting on a windy day!
Hazza - 12/Nov/06

I thought this was perfect at the grade. Interesting moves, and bomber gear all the way to the top.
mark20 - 03/May/08

Excellent route, but definitely use two ropes. Got massive rope drag from under the overhang, and only just made the resting ledge before a complete rope jam occurred.
Mike Berovic - 12/Aug/08

Great route, but would agree with last comment. Massive rope drag with one rope.
pete hutchings - 22/Jun/10

Awkward at the top, just above the dragging rope...Anywho, good fun, and a nice perch at the top to sit and belay the second.
Clovehitch131 - 29/Jan/12

Should be a Top 50; but to echo previous comments make sure you are on double ropes to avoid it being spoilt.
Brian Mattock - 15/Sep/14

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 213
    hard VS 0 of 72
    VS 0 of 72
    easy VS 5 of 72
    hard HS 25 of 72
    HS 41 of 72
    easy HS 1 of 72
    hard0 of 72
    0 of 72
    easy0 of 72
    hard 4c 0 of 69
    4c 0 of 69
    easy 4c 8 of 69
    hard 4b 19 of 69
    4b 38 of 69
    easy 4b 4 of 69
    hard 4a 0 of 69
    4a 0 of 69
    easy 4a 0 of 69
    3 Stars 53 of 72
    2 Stars 19 of 72
    1 Star 0 of 72
    0 Stars 0 of 72
    Bag of ..... 0 of 72

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.