Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 31
14m. From Dead Dog Crack traverse to the spanner (its base is a bit thin, but threading it is better than nothing) then balance up the precarious shallow groove above and right.
The route in the 1988 Moorland Gritstone Guide starts up Lolita on the left side of the wall and traverse rightwards to the spanner.
It is possible to place a high runner in Dead Dog Crack and make a few moves across the traverse to the spanner then exit direct. Still E2, and you'll still hit the floor if you fluff the top move. The spanner is not a particularly confidence-inspiring piece of protection and you don't see how bad it is until you've done the traverse.
Doing it from the right makes the route safer for the leader and the seconder (well to reach the spanner anyway). The move to the spanner this way is a fair reach and may stop those with a short span.
What a route, quirky and fun. Very high in the grade I'd give it 5c british tech. The spanner has enough wabble to make you seriously consider yourself as mad when you're flailing around trying to tie it off. Fantastic!