Lancashire Wall

1 Stars
Reachy
 HVS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Cakestand < Cool Groove  |  Crack and Corner > War Zone (start) >>


12m. The centre of the wall has a delicate start from a block and a good finish up the short leaning front face of the final block. Low in the grade and a good bet for a first HVS.
FA. Dave Kenyon late 1970s

USER COMMENTS

Soft 5a, easy all the way but very reachy at the top section for final top out.
Steve Barker - 27/Aug/03

Quite easy but nice climbing between breaks to reach the final hurdle. Well protected all the way and good pro below the crux (which is the very last move). A very long reach for the top even if you are quite tall- and in a very "out there" position. This would be a good first HVS maybe.
Jon Croxford - 22/Feb/04

Amazing climb. The crux (the final move) is quite reachy as others have said, but a really great move, just commit to it and you'll be fine.
Barnaby Partridge - 14/Jul/04

Standard VS 5a, Steady climbing to top break, loads of gear to protect one reachy move. THere are far harder VS's on stanage.
simon.a - 24/Nov/04

very soft touch... i didnt find the reach too bad and im 5"6. the pro is amazing throughout, take lots of friends
free_doherty - 21/May/05

i found the top move quite reachy (5'11) but it's possible even if you're 5'4 (like my second), you just gotta work your feet higher.
leon skeldon - 11/Jul/05

I really enjoyed it, great final move that's well protected. I didn't think it was that easy at the grade, just about right.
David Berry - 05/Jun/07

Even though the pro is great I still thought it felt commiting. I think if you wern't a HVS climber, setting out on this route would seem tricky for a VS leader. With the grade having dropped to VS in the new BMC guide, i'm sure there are going to be a few shaky legs...
Alexander Wheeldon - 10/Nov/07

At the end I remarked to my mate that I'd have no complaints if it was graded VS 5a. Then I found it was in the new Stanage guide. Which was nice.
Matt1000 - 23/Sep/08

Quite sustained and would be hard for VS 5a. If you avoid the crack on the left and arete on the right then it's a great route, takes lots of cams and has some nice crimpy, reachy moves at the top.
mark20 - 08/Apr/09

Really enjoyed this, lovely face climb through the breaks with a fantastic committing finish after placing bomber pro. I think Rockfax have got this right as lower end HVS and the new BMC guide is, well, misguided. IMHO, of course.
jeffsheard - 02/Sep/09

HVS? My arse.
NIgel Patching - 18/Jun/10

VS4c climbing but has a very reach dependent crux fortunately above good gear, for shorties its hard even at HVS give yourself 5b for the bottle to make a dyno.
shaun walby - 12/Aug/10

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 164
    hard E1 0 of 54
    E1 0 of 54
    easy E1 1 of 54
    hard HVS 0 of 54
    HVS 14 of 54
    easy HVS 30 of 54
    hard VS 9 of 54
    VS 0 of 54
    easy VS 0 of 54
    hard 5b 0 of 55
    5b 0 of 55
    easy 5b 1 of 55
    hard 5a 5 of 55
    5a 38 of 55
    easy 5a 9 of 55
    hard 4c 2 of 55
    4c 0 of 55
    easy 4c 0 of 55
    3 Stars 1 of 55
    2 Stars 18 of 55
    1 Star 36 of 55
    0 Stars 0 of 55
    Bag of ..... 0 of 55

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