Heather Wall

2 Stars
Pumpy
 VS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< Crack and Corner < War Zone (start)  |  Chimp's Corner > Grotto Slab >>


14m. Excellent climbing up the steep face using cracks to reach a deeper vertical crack. Awkward moves gain a ledge then a right-trending scoop. From the large ledge above finish up the easy corner on the right. The right-hand start is 5a and worthwhile.

USER COMMENTS

excellent for 1st VS lead. steep, great gear and quite reachy. shame its over so soon!
paul - 14/Sep/02

Shiny!
Dave F - 14/Oct/02

Pretty sustained, I don't think my arms would have got me up it without a winter at the climbing wall :)
Simon - 07/Apr/03

First VS lead. Excellent route, good gear. Unfortunatly short though.
Dan Sells - 20/Jul/03

Avoid following the cracks and yard between the breaks all the holds are good.
Jon Greengrass - 25/Jul/04

A pretty solid and sustained (short but sustained if that is possible) VS 4c, but protection is fantastic. Very enjoyable.
James McN - 03/Oct/04

Great route, shame it's all over so quickly.
victim of mathematics - 19/May/05

Too short, overgraded and over rated. Easier than its Crack and Corner neighbour. V Diff maybe?
Mutl3y - 28/Jul/05

Anyone with range of experience of gritstone routes will know that this route is bang on at VS 4c. If you think that this is a poor vdiff route then you should try leading it instead of being winched up it on a top rope.
steve davison - 28/Jul/05

In reply to steve davison:
No offence taken but I think you're being a bit rude. I found this route - which I led - to be considerably easier than any other VS climbs that I have led (compare this with topsail or trapeze direct), and at least a dozen or more 'easier' graded climbs - including, but not limited to Tango Buttress, Wall End Holly Tree Crack, The Coign and Crack and Corner (all Stanage), and Route 3 at Burbage North, which is a VDiff 4a and my favourite Birchen undergraded route - Poop Deck Crack (VD). It is also, by the way, much easier than Manchester Buttress (HS) which, while I did fall off whilst seconding, was not winched up!

On the over-rating, I sign up to a school of thought that gives 3 stars only to the best problems around and 2 for the best in the area. Heather Wall is none of these.

I am happy to be in a minority of opinion but wouldn't try to insult those who disagree with me.
Mutl3y - 29/Jul/05

Id say middling-low VS, good enough pro all the way and once 4c move, although can probably be pumpy if youre nervous or and take too long placing gear. Never vdiff, and harder than manc buttress :)
Si dH - 04/Aug/05

Absolutely solid VS - definitive almost. Good test of hanging on when placing the abundance of gear that is to be had. A truly nifty route.
bendoniumayebendonium - 13/Nov/05

Murphy, you had seconded it before leading it, hence why you found it easy, deffo VS if you have no idea of the moves or gear.
smithaldo - 23/Mar/06

Definite solid VS! it is short but until your on the ledge it packs a lot in. Short and sustained is about right! All gear placements are one handed affairs no stood around jobs until your on the ledge! Topsail = one move awesome as it is but still one move 2inches about a bomber thread!
Cameron Anderson - 15/Jul/06

Nice easy VS, good gear, good holds, and just steep enough. Good route!
Adam Moroz - 25/Sep/06

This is a very nice route, it is a shame that it is so short, Paul Tomo
Paul Tomo - 06/Oct/06

Graded Severe in the 1964 guide. No wonder I found it so easy.
Mutl3y - 27/Feb/07

my first vs
oliver - 19/Jan/09

A lovely route that rewards a committed approach. The start is sustained and pumpy while placing gear, but eases with height. The nicest route I have done to date. I haven't led enough VSs to be qualified to judge the grade, but my feeling is that it's at the bottom end of VS, with one or two 4c moves.
Wayne Jones - 02/Jul/09

The easiest VS I have ever led onsight. There are several routes I've led at HS 4b that I've found tougher. Maybe it feels harder if you hang around to place the plentiful gear. As other's have said, a confident approach pays off and all the breaks are jugs.
James Cox - 27/Aug/10

Led this onsight as my last climb of a full day (just as the heavens opened!). By the time I got half way up the wall the water was running down it. Having said that, easily protectable with only a couple of thoughtful moves to the ledge (which were tricky in the wet). Good climb though - use double rope !!!!
Mark Reed - 17/May/11

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 274
    hard HVS 0 of 94
    HVS 0 of 94
    easy HVS 0 of 94
    hard VS 1 of 94
    VS 60 of 94
    easy VS 21 of 94
    hard HS 12 of 94
    HS 0 of 94
    easy HS 0 of 94
    hard 5a 0 of 91
    5a 0 of 91
    easy 5a 0 of 91
    hard 4c 0 of 91
    4c 57 of 91
    easy 4c 23 of 91
    hard 4b 11 of 91
    4b 0 of 91
    easy 4b 0 of 91
    3 Stars 18 of 89
    2 Stars 62 of 89
    1 Star 9 of 89
    0 Stars 0 of 89
    Bag of ..... 0 of 89

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