Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 274
14m. Excellent climbing up the steep face using cracks to reach a deeper vertical crack. Awkward moves gain a ledge then a right-trending scoop. From the large ledge above finish up the easy corner on the right. The right-hand start is 5a and worthwhile.
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excellent for 1st VS lead. steep, great gear and quite reachy. shame its over so soon!
Pretty sustained, I don't think my arms would have got me up it without a winter at the climbing wall :)
First VS lead. Excellent route, good gear. Unfortunatly short though.
Avoid following the cracks and yard between the breaks all the holds are good.
A pretty solid and sustained (short but sustained if that is possible) VS 4c, but protection is fantastic. Very enjoyable.
Great route, shame it's all over so quickly.
Too short, overgraded and over rated. Easier than its Crack and Corner neighbour. V Diff maybe?
Anyone with range of experience of gritstone routes will know that this route is bang on at VS 4c. If you think that this is a poor vdiff route then you should try leading it instead of being winched up it on a top rope.
In reply to steve davison:
Id say middling-low VS, good enough pro all the way and once 4c move, although can probably be pumpy if youre nervous or and take too long placing gear. Never vdiff, and harder than manc buttress :)
Absolutely solid VS - definitive almost. Good test of hanging on when placing the abundance of gear that is to be had. A truly nifty route.
Murphy, you had seconded it before leading it, hence why you found it easy, deffo VS if you have no idea of the moves or gear.
Definite solid VS! it is short but until your on the ledge it packs a lot in. Short and sustained is about right! All gear placements are one handed affairs no stood around jobs until your on the ledge! Topsail = one move awesome as it is but still one move 2inches about a bomber thread!
Nice easy VS, good gear, good holds, and just steep enough. Good route!
This is a very nice route, it is a shame that it is so short, Paul Tomo
Graded Severe in the 1964 guide. No wonder I found it so easy.
my first vs
A lovely route that rewards a committed approach. The start is sustained and pumpy while placing gear, but eases with height. The nicest route I have done to date. I haven't led enough VSs to be qualified to judge the grade, but my feeling is that it's at the bottom end of VS, with one or two 4c moves.
The easiest VS I have ever led onsight. There are several routes I've led at HS 4b that I've found tougher. Maybe it feels harder if you hang around to place the plentiful gear. As other's have said, a confident approach pays off and all the breaks are jugs.
Led this onsight as my last climb of a full day (just as the heavens opened!). By the time I got half way up the wall the water was running down it. Having said that, easily protectable with only a couple of thoughtful moves to the ledge (which were tricky in the wet). Good climb though - use double rope !!!!