Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 95
10m. From the centre of the wall, trend right delicately with hard moves to reach a shallow crack and then easier ground. Pleasantly technical climbing protected by small Friends.
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My first E1 Hooray!! Soloed as well!(gullible me) A bit of a soft touch. Technical moves to the cracky bit but they felt relatively safe above a bouldering mat. Pleasant climbing above gives it a routey air.
However, not so nice without a mat! The placements for the small friends at a useful height are either very worn (on the left and centre) or very poor (on the right) and don't inspire much confidence. Not a route to fall off.
very small friends essential!
The gear is good enough. I tested it on a recent damp summer's day. Certainly not a soft touch though.
It is a bit of a soft touch, but depends on how much the dodgy friends scare you. Personally, I think the crux is one move lower than implied by the description. A mate backed off itthinking the upper slab was the hard bit. I got there, and thought that the move past the gear to stand in the break was the crux, meaning a not-horrible fall if you do come off it! Easy E1 definitely.
Really not E1 if you're using a bouldering mat! Quite steady moves and very reasonale for an onsight solo-able E1
the friend placements scared me, though I rekon they would hold. i didn't find this a soft touch either but then again i am a baby at this grade.
I was clearly on a different route from the rest of you.
That this is a soft touch is ridiculous. 2 or 3 5b/c moves in quick succession beside what are now very bad cam placements is definitely top-end E1 perhaps 5c.
I finally got around to leading this last April. I was unhappy with the gear, unhappy with what looked like a 5c move on the "tiny greasy sloping holds above the breaks", was contemplating backing off, BUT... there is a way, and it's no harder than 5b, but you have to find it...