Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 68
16m. Quality face climbing with a bold central section. Climb the right arete of Rubberneck (a highish runner is permissible) then trend right by high-stepping/rockovers and tricky mantelshelves before following holds straight up the wall, which eases gradually with height. Photos on page 58.
Went back to do this route some 26years after the first ascent,almost to the day .There was a wire placement to the right of the jug which has now gone.At the hole I could still place the hex (small,forget the size but this was on the same perlon as in 1977)Didn't have a friend so we made a sort of hook similar to the ones you used to get on wooden ladders (ask your Dad).This was weighed down by steel krabs to stop it popping out .We graded the route E1 5b because we thought we could'nt climb any harder than that at the time.
Does what it says on the tin =). Attempting the crux by anything other than the BMC-recommended rock-over is not a good idea unless you're very tall or like being frustrated. Done the right way it's very nice and the quality remains until the end.
fantastic route. first rockover is the more difficult of the two and is quite close to the pro. the second is a scary distance away from the pro but isnt too bad once you actually go through with it.