Rugosity Crack

2 Stars
Crimpy
 HVS 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Black Chimney < South Sea Charmer  |  Niche Wall Direct > Cristiana Swing >>


10m. The prominent thin seam which splits the slender tower is a little cracker. Climb to a ledge then finger jam the central section to a steep finish on flat holds.
FA. Pat Fearnehough early 1960s

USER COMMENTS

Take a 2.5 friend for the top crack!Bold without it...
alan g - 18/Mar/02

Eh!When you've got there it's all over, and if you did want gear it's over the place.
Simon A - 15/Aug/03

i'd agree that after the initial cracks things ease that you don't really need gear.

quality route that seems to end a bit early. it's a bit strenuous around the crux for placing gear so i found myself retreating to the ledge for a quick rest!!!
leon skeldon - 16/Jun/04

good hvs climbing although i thought the crux was a hard 5b move. definately no harder though. very steady once the initial crack is over with
free_doherty - 21/May/05

Comfortable HVS compared to some others I have done and the hard moves can be protected ok from below to be able to pull through the crux and finish easily
Richard Hession - 31/Aug/05

found the crux very hard on my fingers, holding on to figure out the next move should have dropped back to the ledge and rested but went for it on tired arms and fell onto gear
chris elfleet - 30/Oct/05

Found quite easy for the grade, good gear and a bomber nut in the second crack once placed just go for the top!
Adam Moroz - 25/Sep/06

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 116
    hard E1 0 of 40
    E1 0 of 40
    easy E1 1 of 40
    hard HVS 9 of 40
    HVS 29 of 40
    easy HVS 1 of 40
    hard VS 0 of 40
    VS 0 of 40
    easy VS 0 of 40
    hard 5c 0 of 39
    5c 0 of 39
    easy 5c 0 of 39
    hard 5b 6 of 39
    5b 31 of 39
    easy 5b 2 of 39
    hard 5a 0 of 39
    5a 0 of 39
    easy 5a 0 of 39
    3 Stars 3 of 37
    2 Stars 26 of 37
    1 Star 8 of 37
    0 Stars 0 of 37
    Bag of ..... 0 of 37

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