Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 29
26m. A big scary pitch weaving its way up the wall. Climb to the top of the flake then traverse right (old peg) to a crack which leads to a rattly traverse back left to reach the upper crack. The direct link is Short Circuit - E4 5c and it is terrifying.
Think this is a soft touch at E3 5c, but then again it was my local crag.
Don't remember it as being that hard and its not very good either.
it's steady away at E2 and 5c, but there's no doubt it's good...steep climbing, decent gear and great holds when you need them!
I automatically clipped a peg up and left, before climbing the direct link, which definately brings it down to E3.
An excellent route, interesting all the way and includes a bit of everything: jamming, fingery face climbing/laybacking, mantling, hand traversing, awkward thrutch (at the bottom). Steeper than it look too, when you ab down you end up 8ft out from the crag. Worth 3 stars. On the down side – the rock is a bit dirty and some of it only has a vague association with the rest of the crag or is softer than weetabix. The top crack is good for gear but there is only one other decent gear placement before that. (Didn’t see any peg on the traverse right) I was told it was E2 and climbed it on that basis – and that seems fair. If it is E3 than that must be for the poor protection and dodgy rock.