Mantelpiece Buttress Direct

1 Stars
 HVS 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Mantelpiece Hand traverse < Mental Peace  |  Fragile Mantel > Mantelpiece Right >>


8m. 'Haul ass' through the crack in the overhang. A great V0+.

USER COMMENTS

A fun little route with some nice holds allowing you to reach round and slot your hand in the crack. Balance once over the overhang, streeeetch and your home
Neil - 14/Jan/02

If you think there's any chance you'll run out of steam on this and come off, take the time to fiddle in a small nut in the crack: it is awkward to place and hard to tell if it's any good. I saw someone do a too casual job off this, come off, rip the nut, deck out. Not nice.
Eric - 06/Jul/03

yeah i ran out of steam, fell and the nut popped, decked, but would like to try it again sometime.
Alex Rigg - 25/May/04

One of the large HB offset nuts fitted perfectly, but it's not a common piece of gear.
Monk - 25/May/04

A nice route with the fun near the floor, easier to solo than to lead. Forget the gear, just go!
adam - 14/Aug/04

I soloed this, and agree that the gear probably isn't worth it. Grab a spotter (or a mat, if you feel like cheating), and give it a go. I did a lot of up-downing before committing to the layback to pass the roof, but enjoyed the move thoroughly. Great small roof problem / route.
Pythonist - 13/Jul/05

I came off this from the ledge after the initial crack, no gear in so decked out, fractured my elbow and shook myself up preety bad. Definately worth getting some gear in.
Adam Moroz - 15/Sep/05

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 81
    hard E1 0 of 27
    E1 0 of 27
    easy E1 0 of 27
    hard HVS 2 of 27
    HVS 13 of 27
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    5b 17 of 27
    easy 5b 5 of 27
    hard 5a 5 of 27
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    2 Stars 5 of 27
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