Route 4

1 Stars
 HVS 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Route 3 < Route 3.5  |  Route 5 > Cranberry Wall >>

Just left of the arete is a thin wall with tough finale.


hmmm, i though this route went up the arete, or is that route 5? whatever the arete is tricky to start direct but at the same grade.
Jon Greengrass - 26/Aug/02

The wall left of the arete gets hard at the top. Don't see why the guidebook has "eases with height" as the description. Not unless it's refering to the height of the climber. Nasty top move with a horrid landing (if you're bouldering the route).
Paul Boardman - 04/Nov/02

Come on Mr Craggs, whats with this route description? It's really easy up until a horrendous last move! I know lots of people who've soloed all the other routes in this bit of the guide but can't touch this, surely harder than the Chant? And agreed, the landing is shocking!
Nick - 13/Sep/03

This definitely gets harder as you go up and without the right arete (which in the BMC guide is given as a separate route at a 'juggy 4b')there is a hard 5c move to latch the top above an exceedingly sketchy landing. Makes the Chant look like a cakewalk.
Ed - 06/Dec/04

Felt about right at VS 5b but the start is easy and the finish is reachy (I'm 6'5) I found a knee bar extremely useful!
Iggy_B - 22/Feb/05

agreed...eases with height = pish! As most usually will be taken on by soloists this is probably a more important misleading description on a 6m problem than on a longer route. Am 5 10 and had to undercut off a little finger to latch the top.
DuzWalker - 20/May/05

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 2
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