The Curse

1 Stars
Reachy
Crimpy
 VS 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< The Chant Direct Start < 20-foot Crack  |  Lost in France > Little Plumb >>


8m. A fine boulder-problem requiring some harsh crimping. It can be aptly named (and 5c) for the short, swearing helps!

USER COMMENTS

Very reachy! I was playing on this one with a short friend (5'5) and he couldn't reach the holds! A couple of reachy moves bring some larger holds to hand.
Paul Boardman - 17/Sep/02

sh*t f*ck b*gger a*se bl**dy h*ck the start of this route is never 5b the move of those flat undercuts with smears for your feet is more like 6a!!!
Jon Greengrass - 27/Mar/03

wasnt too bad - use the flatty and slap up. Was tricky though, great little problem!
mozzer - 15/May/03

6a?????!!!!!!!! WHAT!
Bob - 15/May/03

Would definately agree with Jon, maybe not quite 6a, maybe 5c. Certainly quite a bit harder than Lost in France which is next door and gets 5c which i thought to be quite easy!
Andy Townsend - 24/Jun/03

I broke both feet falling off this, landing on a rock with my heels. I'd done it many times before. Start is 5c, followed by easier moves. Use a mat and a spotter.
John Yates - 25/Jun/03

A reasonable little problem. Spent a while working it out. Hardest one at the Chant area!
Andy W - 15/Dec/03

ha HA! succeded at last 3 years trying finally managed it last monday. In sub zero conditions only took 3 goes and it felt piss when i did it, top move is quite scary so definitely VS. Just get you left foot on high on that vertical smear and push like hell.

PS Reeve is a weak punter and can't do this or the RH arete of the tiny slab
Jon Greengrass - 15/Feb/04

the start of this route is easy aint it? like jon says, use the *big* vertical smear. thought the crux was the massive reach up with both feet high on the smears as shown in the rockfax picture.
leon skeldon - 28/Aug/04

Quite sustained but a very good micro route.
Iggy_B - 09/May/05

At last! After doing the crux start about 5million times I finally got the bottle to do the top, which was a bit scary, good route
Matt G - 22/May/05

Nice problem - took me a while to work out the first few moves but once I got the sequence it was fairly easy. I don't think its that bad for the short - I'm about 5'6 and had no trouble with reach - the reach from the big slot to the next hold isn't too bad if you're in balance, I almost felt I could let go and reach up for the hold.
Ali - 01/Sep/05

Nice little route. Good hard start and an interesting finish. Cool solo or highball...
Ian - 05/Oct/05

Did this with a broken finger and trainers in the rain whilst wearing a tracksuit. Felt about 5b.
Joe Costello - 17/Mar/06

Frightening-must be worht HVS without mat or V2 with
stuart harmer - 26/Jun/06

come on people - use the undercut and it's piss..
Wilbur - 20/Nov/06

Just get some finger power and pull over the 1st bit on the crimps, easy!
Matt1000 - 18/Sep/08

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 100
    hard HVS 0 of 33
    HVS 0 of 33
    easy HVS 10 of 33
    hard VS 14 of 33
    VS 8 of 33
    easy VS 1 of 33
    hard HS 0 of 33
    HS 0 of 33
    easy HS 0 of 33
    hard 5c 0 of 38
    5c 0 of 38
    easy 5c 4 of 38
    hard 5b 11 of 38
    5b 21 of 38
    easy 5b 0 of 38
    hard 5a 2 of 38
    5a 0 of 38
    easy 5a 0 of 38
    3 Stars 0 of 29
    2 Stars 4 of 29
    1 Star 25 of 29
    0 Stars 0 of 29
    Bag of ..... 0 of 29

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.